CHJ
Established Member
Alf":3iah5ah1 said:...SNIP...
Who likes engineers really. Some of my best friends are - actually, no, I tell a lie... :wink:
Hmmm.. MIGHT just go looking for some of those Show shots for the gallery after all :twisted:
Alf":3iah5ah1 said:...SNIP...
Who likes engineers really. Some of my best friends are - actually, no, I tell a lie... :wink:
Chris, You should know better, even a CMM has zone tolerances; and the majority of them are a lot greater than many people realise.waterhead37":1u46l876 said:....SNIP...
- a CMM has no such limitations -...snip..
CHJ":1qc73lr3 said:Chris, You should know better, even a CMM has zone tolerances; and the majority of them are a lot greater than many people realise.waterhead37":1qc73lr3 said:....SNIP...
- a CMM has no such limitations -...snip..
Pete W":1scd708q said:I'm a lurker under the Porch; I have subscribed but haven't yet figured out how to post a message there, which is why I'm posting here
Saw a post there from Bugbear on the dangers of the common method of plane-flattening (glass or other flat plate, wet'n'dry, etc) and realised that there's a body of evidence to support his opposition...
Among the other hobbies/interests I don't have time for, astronomy figures high on the list. From whence comes this bit of esoteric knowledge. If you want to make your own telescope mirror from scratch, you buy two round glass blanks (sort of like turning blanks), scatter appropriate abrasive material between them, and grind away in a circular fashion. After some time and effort you, rather miraculously, end up with one convex and one concave piece of glass (a parabolic, concave mirror being the ultimate aim).
So, as Bugbear argues, grinding your plane on abrasive paper is almost guaranteed to produce a concave (or convex) surface, if you do it enough (I don't have the experience to suggest how long is enough).
As an aside, the traditional final grit in the abrasive process of mirror-grinding is common talcum powder. Which always makes me smile when I read people recommending talc as a way of lubricating the surface of cast-iron tables.
waterhead37":30hlihuo said:Alf":30hlihuo said:MikeW":30hlihuo said:Well, gotta go out to the shop. Need to make room for...
A Coordinate Measuring Machine of course. Everyone knows that a surface plate and prussian blue depend totally on smearing the right thickness of blue on the surface - a CMM has no such limitations - ask Tony.
Tony":ej19gmuw said:surely not the same for a plane
'flat enough' is good enough for me, and I'd measure that flatness by the surface it leaves on wood
andy king":glikv5jt said:'flat enough' is good enough for me, and I'd measure that flatness by the surface it leaves on wood
Absolutely!
I see little point in looking for flaws or discrepancies on any plane without first trying it. If I can plane timber flat, twist free and square with it, what is the point of flattening it when it already does what it is intended to do?
Seems like a pointless excercise to me! :shock:
Alf":2e2xs03g said:while perusing "The Amateur's Lathe" last night. :shock: :wink:
MikeW":1qq0dcba said:A plane flexes in use.
How original original? And exactly how cheap? Just so I know the full horror right away... :roll: :lol:bugbear":1tuoh18y said:Took me ages to get a cheap, original copy of that
Alf":2xboaq4f said:How original original? And exactly how cheap? Just so I know the full horror right away... :roll: :lol:bugbear":2xboaq4f said:Took me ages to get a cheap, original copy of that
Cheers, Alf
Ah.bugbear":l0dtauy0 said:I'll only tell you if you tell my WHY you bought your copy :twisted:
Alf":2fo74uos said:Oh, and don't think I haven't noticed you've failed to answer the question, btw... [-X I told you mine, you tell me yours. :wink:
Incidentally, wasn't there a topic floating around here someplace? 8-[
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