A Question of Spokeshaves

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Was using my flat bottom one to do concave and convex curves on the legs of my TV stand today. Used it recently to put a gentle curve into the sides of a reading stand
 
Well......after plenty of trial and error I found out that round soled spokesheaves are made solely for selling and not for being used by humans.
I sold my round soled Stanley spokesheave for 1 euro to somebody who had not yet learned this fact of life......or maybe he knew something I have'nt learned yet;)

My old flat soled Stanleys work well.....or at least well enough for my moderate skill level.
 
heimlaga":1elo10s1 said:
Well......after plenty of trial and error I found out that round soled spokesheaves are made solely for selling and not for being used by humans.
I sold my round soled Stanley spokesheave for 1 euro to somebody who had not yet learned this fact of life......or maybe he knew something I have'nt learned yet;)

My old flat soled Stanleys work well.....or at least well enough for my moderate skill level.

I just recently treated myself to a round bottomed Veritas s'shave for doing a concaved curve on the front edge of a computer desk I'm about to build, including a tapered chamfer on the edge of the curve.
I agonised for quite a while about the purchase exactly because everyone said using it was going to involve a steep learning curve. After a couple of practice sessions I am now wondering what all the fuss is about, it really isn't that difficult. This sounds like bragging on my part, but I'm convinced it has a lot more to do with the quality of the tool than my skill levels - the veritas 'shaves are very very good indeed and for concave work I would consider a round one pretty much essential. Quite how Ironballs managed to do concave curves with a flat 'shave I don't know ( :shock: ) as I tried this and found it virtually impossible.
 
MarkW":3v9ctlf6 said:
Quite how Ironballs managed to do concave curves with a flat 'shave I don't know ( :shock: ) as I tried this and found it virtually impossible.
If the curve is sufficiently shallow then it's easy. At a certain point though, when the curve becomes too concave, the flat bottomed 'shave will cease to cut and then it's time for the round bottomed 'shave - Rob
 
Like Rob says, you can cheat a bit as well and project the blade a bit further to keep the cut going. There is a downside though, you can become prone to dig ins and chattering as you're asking the tool to do something beyond its limits
 
Hi, Chaps

This is the round bottom shave to have its a Millers Falls No1 of cigar shave. It will shave any hole big enough to get the handles in :wink:

DSC_0056-1.jpg


Pete
 
Ironballs":3bzl8s6c said:
Like Rob says, you can cheat a bit as well and project the blade a bit further to keep the cut going. There is a downside though, you can become prone to dig ins and chattering as you're asking the tool to do something beyond its limits

Yes, exactly the problem I was having. Another problem was I was working a curved edge which went from convex to concave and cut freehand on the bandsaw, as such the radius was in constant flux as I progressed along the edge. I worked exactly as Rob suggests, but because of the varying radius any given projection only worked acceptably for a very short portion of the edge. Add that to the variation in the depth of chamfer (which is greatest at the middle of the curve) and you have a recipe for some serious hair pulling / teeth gnashing.
My round 'shave was consequently one of the best £80 I've spent in a long while.
 
OPJ":27k1vrls said:
Well spotted, Pete! :oops:

I have sent Ray an e-mail to confirm things but, according to his website, they only do standard-thickness blades for my models.

Ive got one of Rays, its probably about 3mm thick.
 

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