A Dining Table Restoration

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Yojevol

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Location
Wotton-under-Edge, Glos
I've had the photos for this project tucked away and almost forgotten for over a year now. However on a dreary Sunday morning in these peculiar days we're living through, I thought I would have a go at putting the story together.
I had one of those phone calls from my daughter – “Daa......aad, we've bought this old oak table; could do with a bit of tidying up.....”
So, I had a look at it and realised it would be a bit more than a sanding down and refinishing. It had spent the last 20 odd years in an antique shop window used as a display stand, so suffering from an overdose of UV.
This is how it looked when I got it back in the workshop:-
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The crux of the project was to get the tabletop flat again. The top consisted of 2 extending leaves each of 3 joined boards and 2 infill leaves of 2 boards each. The majority of the board glue joints were parting company and 2 had completely failed. So the first job was to remove all the boards and separate them completely.
My proposed method of flattening was to kerf slots on the underside and refill these with oak strips whilst keeping the board flat.
I surveyed each board to determine where movement had occurred and thus the required slot positions which would allow it to flex back to somewhere near flat. Here they are marked up and ready for the saw.
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Here is a board on the saw, just about to receive its surgery. The blade height is set to leave about 5mm of the top surface intact:-
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And here we are with 2 slots cut:-
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To flatten the board I clamped it to a length of 32mm MDF. This narrowed the slot in some places so I had to fettle the slots and infill strips to get them to lie nicely for gluing. I used Cascamit for its gap filling qualities.
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After going through this process for all 8 boards they were ready to glue back together again. The board edges were trued up with my No.8 and biscuits used for alignment and strength. I didn't take a shot of that stage but here we are, immediately after gluing, sanding one of the extension leaves down to a decent finish.
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Here they are all sanded off with a splash of sanding sealer in one corner just to see what the final finish might look like:-
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Next I had to reinstate the edge moulding, the original having been destroyed in cleaning and truing up. The original round over moulding curve was elliptical. This gives the pleasing effect of a substantial feature when viewed from above but does not penetrate down the edge too much. Fortunately our friends at Wealden were able to supply the perfect router cutter. In this shot you cane see the 'before and after':-
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The last operation as far as the tabletop was concerned was refitting the cornice (if that's the right word) to the underside. This is merely to add visual substance, ie, making the table look more substantial than it really is:-
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Part 2
 
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Interesting, thanks for posting.
I've read suggestions about kerfing and gluing warped boards, but can't recall seeing a real example like this, so it's good to know that it can work.
 
I then turned my attention to the undercarriage. On dismantling the whole thing, it became apparent that the tabletop had been reduced in size at some point in its history. This, to my mind, made the frame and legs, proportionately, over large. So I set about reducing the lengths of the frame sides and ends. This involved cleaning out mortices and cutting new tenons. I also thought the legs needed slimming down to look a bit more elegant. Here are the components awaiting modification:-

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Quickly moving on, here is the table 're-mantled' and the extension winding jack mechanism being tested:-

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I had to replace one of the two cross beams as the original was completely knackered due to the sliding side rails being distorted and high frictional loads to overcome with the jack handle. I re-machined the twisted side rails with their the sliding keys and grooves. A bit of candle wax provided some lubrication. The replacement crossbeam is the lighter one made of beech.

In slimming down the legs I found that they were not made of oak (possibly chestnut) and there was some worm damage. I was able to cut out most of the wormy bits but I treated them nevertheless.
At this point, in consultation with my client, I decided to paint the frame and legs with the very 'in' chalky grey sorry, slate paint as a very easy way to deal with all the marks and fillings in the structure.
Here are some pics of the finished project

( I don't know how to get the first one into portrait mode, but click on it and it comes right)

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That's it folks
Brian
 
Fantastic job. Personally I wouldn't have painted the legs but it's great to see an old unloved piece given a new lease of life. Excellent.
 
Good save!
I thought from your other thread that the legs looked too thick and too near the edge, so I think you are right to change that.
 
3 years on near enough amd I like clicking on "part 2" - adds to the suspense
Great job and very interesting process. @Yojevol and the grey suits the asthetic.
 
Are those yer actual Wegner chairs or pale imitations thereof?
 
Are those yer actual Wegner chairs or pale imitations thereof?
They're certainly pale and not very comfortable. I didn't realise they are a particular design until I Googled Wegner. I'll have to have a closer look next time I'm there. The other chairs in the pic have just been reupholstered and are now the favourites to sit on.
Brian
 
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Are those yer actual Wegner chairs or pale imitations thereof?
It's feedback time - had lunch at D2's today and had a chance to look at the chairs. They were purchased new many years ago on the advice of D1 (interior designer). They may be replicas but very nicely made but not particularly comfortable.
Brian
 
We bought similar chairs from Dunelm recently that looked great but achieving equal length legs was obviously beyond their supplier and they were sent straight back, maybe to be sold on as rocking chairs! They did look good though, as do your daughter's

Sean
 

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