I made all the mouldings including the skirtings/baseboards in my basement from MDF sheet and painted them. Making them myself was half the cost of pre-made. I'm retired so my time is considered worthless, at least when you calculate how much my government pension is per hour. Mine only had a 1/8"/3mm round over, hand head in a trim router but the MDF doesn't care what you use. For a bigger profile I would recommend a router table with a tall fence. Where joints fell in the middle of the wall I cut the baseboards/skirting at a 45º angle over a stud and used glue and brads. Easy enough after to fill and sand any slight mismatch or differences. You'll be doing it for the rest of the brad holes anyway. They won't be seen under the paint. I always start with the longest walls and work my way down to the shortest pieces, that way any cutting goofs can be shortened. The upside to making your own mouldings is you can pick the thicknesses you like, even glueing some together to make what is not readily available.
If I had to make large profiled mouldings I would use machines not normally found in the UK.
Planer moulders like the Williams and Hussey or the planer, moulder,gang saw, drum sanders like the RBI,
Woodmaster types. I have older versions of both. They make moulding a short run for a house easy.
Mike what about replacing your short stroke sliding table saw with combination version of the same with a tilting head spindle in addition to the saw? My buddy had a Hammer or Felder and he loved the ability to use the sliding table for both and it wasn't much bigger than the saw alone. Might cost more but you can't buy more space in your basement.
Pete
Bracing to the opposite side of the room when it is in a hallway or bathroom is easy enough but across a 15' room a little harder. I'll sometimes even resort to countersunk screws to pull in a piece on a wavy wall.
All good fun though.
another boat anchor for you
