a 1st chainsaw

[flying haggis]

perhaps this is not what you were looking for

 

[Woody2Shoes]

i was looking at something like a 16 in bar.

or would that be a bit unwieldy for a newbie like me?

is 15in more like it?

I managed for years with a 14" jobby - cutting down medium-sized trees and turning them into firewood or lumps/boards for making stuff out of (a bandsaw being the other indispensable tool for this).

I would start small and work up to a larger bar if you have a specific need for it. The advantages of a shorter bar are that the thing is more controllable and therefore safer, as well as being a tad more energy/fuel efficient.

 

[Hlsmith]

i was looking at something like a 16 in bar.

or would that be a bit unwieldy for a newbie like me?

is 15in more like it?

First mistake is don't look at the guide bar length to compare saws it's a complete waste of time
You need to look at the cc of the engine
Alot of hobby saws fit bars far to big for the engine
I've seen a 18inch bar on a 40cc saw and also on a 90cc saw
They both run it but the bigger saw will do it quicker

I also disagree with buying the smallest saw you can get away with
There are far more things to consider
Firstly a small saw struggling all the time will not last anywhere near as long as a big saw having an easy life
Secondly it may well do the job eventually but the big saw will do it alot quicker
The standard starter saw in forestry is a 50cc saw with a 15inch bar
It's great to learn and powerful enough for most jobs
But personally I prefer a 60cc saw with 18inch bar
The extra power more than makes up for the slight increase in weight
They are still light enough to use all day enough power to deal with most things can even swap out to a 24in bar
Also the wood will vary your decision
Hard woods require more power so intern a shorter bar for the size of machine

You can also remove teeth to allow you to run bigger bars on a saw

 

[Trainee neophyte]

i was looking at something like a 16 in bar.

or would that be a bit unwieldy for a newbie like me?

is 15in more like it?

First mistake is don't look at the guide bar length to compare saws it's a complete waste of time
You need to look at the cc of the engine
Alot of hobby saws fit bars far to big for the engine
I've seen a 18inch bar on a 40cc saw and also on a 90cc saw
They both run it but the bigger saw will do it quicker

I also disagree with buying the smallest saw you can get away with
There are far more things to consider
Firstly a small saw struggling all the time will not last anywhere near as long as a big saw having an easy life
Secondly it may well do the job eventually but the big saw will do it alot quicker
The standard starter saw in forestry is a 50cc saw with a 15inch bar
It's great to learn and powerful enough for most jobs
But personally I prefer a 60cc saw with 18inch bar
The extra power more than makes up for the slight increase in weight
They are still light enough to use all day enough power to deal with most things can even swap out to a 24in bar
Also the wood will vary your decision
Hard woods require more power so intern a shorter bar for the size of machine

You can also remove teeth to allow you to run bigger bars on a saw

Completely opposing, but equally valid advice. It all comes down to what you plan to cut with your saw. You know better than we do what your plans are. Any chainsaw is better than no chainsaw. I would also say that I don't really have a need for a 60cc chainsaw, and don't have one, but I would rather like one for those occasions when a small saw struggles. Hlsmith is right - a more powerful saw cuts much faster, with less effort, in a big piece of wood. I just never seem to have big pieces of wood to cut up, unfortunately.

 

[Hlsmith]

I completely understand that not everyone needs such a large saw its just my personal preference for a saw for commercial use
And my point about a bigger saw I meant didn't necessarily mean 60cc I just meant don't by a saw that is working its limit for the size timber you intend to deal with
If all your timber is 8inch whilst a 30cc saw will deal with it a 40cc saw will do it quicker a last longer without to much weight gain
It works at every level we have 75cc saws that would cut through a 4ft piece of timber but we wouldn't use them
Equally we have 20cc saws that have there place

 

[Suffolkboy]

That's fine. But the lad is 16 looking for his first saw.

Personally my advice would be smaller rather than larger.

As his technique and experience improves he could progress to a big unwieldy numb thing if he wants.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

I completely understand that not everyone needs such a large saw its just my personal preference for a saw for commercial use
And my point about a bigger saw I meant didn't necessarily mean 60cc I just meant don't by a saw that is working its limit for the size timber you intend to deal with
If all your timber is 8inch whilst a 30cc saw will deal with it a 40cc saw will do it quicker a last longer without to much weight gain
It works at every level we have 75cc saws that would cut through a 4ft piece of timber but we wouldn't use them
Equally we have 20cc saws that have there place

I think that measuring power by ccs is potentially misleading - modern electronics can enable much more power from a given cc volume.

 

[Hlsmith]

That's fine. But the lad is 16 looking for his first saw.

Personally my advice would be smaller rather than larger.

As his technique and experience improves he could progress to a big unwieldy numb thing if he wants.

I wasn't saying something unwieldy just not to buy a saw that is on its edge of ability
A 40 to 50 cc saw is ideal for a learner yet still better than the 25-30cc category

Also cc is far better than bar size as professional saws will have a wide variety of bar sizes it's just a show of point for domestic saws when they put oversized bars on
And the first saw with full blown electronic injection that really makes a power difference is the Stihl ms500i and whilst it is 80cc saw it is sold as a 90cc category saw for this reason

 

[Trainee neophyte]

...
And the first saw with full blown electronic injection that really makes a power difference is the Stihl ms500i and whilst it is 80cc saw it is sold as a 90cc category saw for this reason

https://masseys-diy.co.uk/stihl-ms500i-chainsaw/

I think I'm in love, but not with the price! Very nice saw, but possibly a tad expensive for a first all-rounder. And I though I had expensive tastes in chainsaws!

I had a quick rummage through Amazon, just to get an idea, and if it was me buying a saw, I would get the little Husqvarna for £170: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Husqvarna-HUSQ ... 95&sr=8-31

I wouldn't buy an electric one, and I wouldn't buy anything unbadged, or with "Ryobi" written on the side. The one thing that will drive you completely mad with a chainsaw is if it doesn't start instantly, because you are forever starting and stopping them - every time you change position, pretty much. You need it to go first time, every time you pull the string, otherwise you will end up throwing it an impressive distance, with much invective and venom. I have seen it done a number of times, and even done it myself, once.

Does anyone have experience of the Husqvarna HUSQ120-14? (NB- I wouldn't buy it from Amazon, but from whoever was going to maintain it for me after I have bought it - give him some incentive to fix it should things go wrong).

 

[Sideways]

A summary I once read made me smile. The reviewer placed Stihl and Husqvarna above all other makes, but in essesnce summed up the difference between them as one's easier to start, the other's better at keeping going ...
Take a look at "The Essential Craftsman" on youtube. He's posted a time or two about chainsaws. He's been around a while but still has all his fingers and toes. I suspect his opinion might be worth listening to.

 

[Trevanion]

Take a look at "The Essential Craftsman" on youtube. He's posted a time or two about chainsaws. He's been around a while but still has all his fingers and toes. I suspect his opinion might be worth listening to.

One of my favorite channels on the tube, very concise and to the point, no messing about. 3 Chainsaw videos and an irrelevant favorite of mine

[youtube]kzuijFHquQk[/youtube]
[youtube]DW-W7P40zyk[/youtube]
[youtube]aWqwJ6woOag[/youtube]
[youtube]y4JJ0MgZNaU[/youtube]

 

[BHwoodworking]

thanks everyone. you guys are a massive pool of knowledge.

the reason why i suggested a 260/261 is because a couple of friends have it (i might add they are both over 20). they speak highly of it and one of them got a 261C-M as his starter saw. when i was younger i was more into what looked cool but now i go for practicality. e.g. i wanted a 500i of a 880 in the 120cm bar but now thinking about it it is a bit of a beast for a newbe.

what are top handled saw like? some people seem to swear by them and other think they are a death trap in a smaller package that a bigger saw?

 

[Trainee neophyte]

what are top handled saw like? some people seem to swear by them and other think they are a death trap in a smaller package that a bigger saw?

All about usage: my saws have top handles because I climb trees and prune - i.e. i mostly cut little bits off - two or three inches in diameter, whilst dangling in inappropriate ways at the end of inadequately sturdy branches. I often use my saw with one hand (!!!), because the other hand is stopping me from falling out of the tree. Insanely dangerous, but it is what it is. If you think you will be climbing trees and pruning, get a top handled, lightweight, short bar saw. If, on the other hand, you will be on the ground, cutting thicker logs (like 99% of people), then get a traditional saw with a long handle, which you absolutely have to use two hands to control. "Keep arms and legs inside the vehicle at all times". Not only will you have more control, you won't do what I did, which is put your free hand on the spinning chain. It hurts, and it takes weeks to heal, and I have no sensation in that finger any more. Strangely, I do still have the finger, so that is nice, and unexpected.

These are American stats, so my little accident isn't on the list, but you get the point, I hope.

 

[Suffolkboy]

You won't be able to purchase a new top handle saw in the UK without the vendor having sight of the correct ticket.

second hand is another matter but...

Unless you are climbing there is no need.

If you are climbing then they are great, obviously because that is what they are meant for.

I did a sectional takedown of a huge hairy Pinus radiata yesterday for a friend without my tophandles and working in amongst tight branches with my 346 was awkward.

Does anyone on here have any experience of electric top handle saws? I am thinking of taking the plunge but not sure I am ready to leave the internal combustion engine behind just yet.

 

[BHwoodworking]

i wont me doing much climbing of trees with a chainsaw so a top handle is a no no.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

You won't be able to purchase a new top handle saw in the UK without the vendor having sight of the correct ticket.

second hand is another matter but...

Unless you are climbing there is no need.

If you are climbing then they are great, obviously because that is what they are meant for.

I did a sectional takedown of a huge hairy Pinus radiata yesterday for a friend without my tophandles and working in amongst tight branches with my 346 was awkward.

Does anyone on here have any experience of electric top handle saws? I am thinking of taking the plunge but not sure I am ready to leave the internal combustion engine behind just yet.

I've only looked at one in the shop, but it seems to do the job in much the same way. I would need too many batteries to justify one, but they are quiet. I am told a favourite use here is to go into the forest (government owned) and cut down trees illegally, which might be of interest to a tree surgeon in a suburban setting? (The being quiet, not the stealing trees bit).

 

[Suffolkboy]

I like the being quiet thing and the not having to start your saw in the canopy thing if it cuts out, which it wouldn't because it's electric.

I do worry about battery life though, not only in how long a charge lasts but how many charges you get before the battery is knackered.

 

[BHwoodworking]

ive been looking around and tanaka seem to be fairly good

 

[craigs]

Another +1 for the MS 181

 

[Trainee neophyte]

ive been looking around and tanaka seem to be fairly good

I have no experience of Tanaka, so can't comment. These people did, however: https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/8806 ... -and-4501/