6mm acrylic

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marcros

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I have a couple of straight cuts to do on some 6mm acrylic, to make an L shaped piece. What would be your go to blade for this?

If it makes a difference it will be in a hand fret saw but it takes standard scrollsaw blades.
 
If you were going to cut the acrylic on the scroll saw I would have advised a slow speed as a fast speed would weld the sides back together again. I have never cut acrylic with a hand fret saw but I would imagine it will be quite straight forward with something like a number 7 blade.
 
FWIW, I cut Liteglaze acrylic by hand with a fine toothed saw,having plenty of saw angle and well supported, and I find once you start it's best not to stop if possible.HTH Regards Rodders
 
I might try it with a dovetail saw first then. The inner corner can be drilled to give a radius and the whole piece is about 75 x 50mm. That is about the finest other saw that I have other than the fret saw.
 
marcros":2cnyqp4o said:
I might try it with a dovetail saw first then. The inner corner can be drilled to give a radius and the whole piece is about 75 x 50mm. That is about the finest other saw that I have other than the fret saw.


I would imagine a dovetail saw to be ideal for this.
You probably know this, I use masking tape and mark the cut line on top if the protective cover is missing or damaged.
This also helps against breaking out and cracking. Rodders
 
On acrylic I found a strip of sellotape (other brands are available) over the line of the cut stops it welding itself back together. That was with a scrollsaw but maybe worth doing with a hand fretsaw.

Regards Keith
 
marcros,

If the 6mm acrylic you've got to cut is not too long, and as the cuts are only straight lines, personally I wouldn't bother with a saw at all.

You need a "scrawker" - basically an old bradawl, screwdriver, etc, with a small sharp hook/notch ground on the business end.

Support the sheet on thick rags, an old towel, etc, mark the cut position at each end of the sheet with a fine marker pen, line up a steel straight edge on the marks, then "scrawk" along the length - as it's 6 mm, you'll probably need fairly good hand pressure and about 4 scrawks in all, but it's not necessary to go all the way through the sheet.

Then turn it over, support the uncut side of the sheet with the steel straight edge flat on the bench with the straight edge close under the scrawked mark and press firmly downwards (like they do to cut sheets of glass in the glass shop).

It will break off quite cleanly, though at 6 mm, being quite thick, it may need a quick tidy up with some abrasive paper afterwards.

Your "scrawker" tool needs to have a pretty fine hook/point ground onto it, otherwise you'll need to make an allowance for the thickness of the tool when setting out your final measurement, because, as said above, 6 mm is quite thick for this trick. But I have often done this, including thicker sheets of acrylic once in a while.

You can also use a smoothing plane or block plane to trim to final size if necessary - the main point being that both the scrawking and the sanding/planing are done at hand tool speeds and don't therefore promote the tendency for the 2 cut edges to melt together again during cutting and trimming.

Acrylic is pretty soft stuff really (in comparison to any wood except perhaps balsa) and provided it is well supported during the operations, won't give you any problems at all with cracking, etc.

But as I'm sure you already know it scratches pretty easily, so if the finished item is for show, make sure you keep the backing sheets in place until the very last minute.

HTH
AES
 
I have always thought that perspex was easier than acrylic to work.
Persex was sold where I learnt my trade, and it arrived on a pallet of 50, 6'x 4'sheets x1/8" thick.
We cut this to sizes for any tractor, van, etc side windows on the 30" bandsaw and shot the edges on the planer.
The acrylic is nowhere as forgiving as perpex and will, in my experience,crack quite easily, also the acrylic is a lot thinner, I have planed the edges of both on my O.H. planer.
So I personally would not try "scawkering" or even a stanly knife.
Regards Rodders
 
It wasn't very forgiving when I drilled it in the wrong place.

When I get a few minutes, I need to make another, but this time I will rout a slot whilst it is in a big piece. On the plus side, it cut easily with a fret saw, although I will use a dovetail saw next time to keep a straighter line. Snapping wouldn't work on this piece because there is an internal corner. If possible to accommodate this, it isn't for my first time doing it!
 
marcros":7iutd1gi said:
It wasn't very forgiving when I drilled it in the wrong place.

When I get a few minutes, I need to make another, but this time I will rout a slot whilst it is in a big piece. On the plus side, it cut easily with a fret saw, although I will use a dovetail saw next time to keep a straighter line. Snapping wouldn't work on this piece because there is an internal corner. If possible to accommodate this, it isn't for my first time doing it!

If I remember correctly, the acrylic drills better with slightly dull hss drill bits, the sharp ones seemed to start ok, and then grab and snap! Regards Rodders
 
marcros,

Sorry to hear you've had a problem with the acrylic. I agree it's a bit more brittle than Perspex (whatever those 2 plastics really are - I bet that just like "steel", "wood", "aluminium", etc, there are different formulations of material going by the name of acrylic and perspex, perhaps produced by different manufacturers).

Personally I've never had any problem with handling up to 8 mm acrylic exactly like I said, though 8 mm IS pushing it a bit, agreed.

Don't forget the trick I stated before of always having it on the bench supported by a thick wad of old towel or something.

And for drilling, in my experience blackrod is quite correct, a blunt drill does work if you take it gently, but I found even better is a brad point drill for wood work - again with the sheet supported on the above thick towel and NOT using the drill press. I always use a hand drill (not an electric) and go very gently a slow speed.

HTH.

AES
 
it wasnt the drill bit that I had an issue with- I drilled it in the wrong place!

Thanks for all the tips though.
 
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