60th Birthday gift ideas - UPDATE

[Jensmith]

Hi all,

My Dad is 60 in October and he has most things so I was thinking the best gift would be one I could make and he's had a pen already

I'm looking for ideas as I have a few skills but I'm generally inexperienced in woodworking, certainly in techniques. I've picked up a lot already but miniature work isn't quite the same. I'm using fairly basic skills so far.

My Dad is a real lover of wood, his eyes light up when he finds a nice bit of furniture or a box made with a nice piece of timber at NT properties and the like so I was thinking of something easy to make but that could be made from some really nice timber but that could also be useful.

I was thinking that a box might be my best bet but I'd like some advice on:
Is it the right sort of project? Any alternatives?

What timber would be best? - I'm looking for something easy to finish to a high standard for a beginner but that will look really nice and be special for my Dad. Perhaps two different woods to work together?

Are inlays difficult and how do you go about them? Is straight banding the best to go for?

What's the best way to finish it?

I'm planning ahead here as you can see as I'm generally busy with my miniature work and I think I may need a few practices before I manage to get it right!

Any tips appreciated.

Thanks guys,

Jennifer

 

[dickm]

How about a nice case for the pen(s)?
On a similar line, since your Dad is possibly getting to the age where his arms have shortened and he can't hold books far enough away to read them ( ), how about a wooden spectacle case? Just thinking that these sorts of things are nearest to "miniatures", where you have the skills already.

Also guessing that if you can cope with miniatures, then the precision cutting needed for inlay would be pretty much the same.

 

[Jensmith]

Thanks ****, a pen box might be a good idea. Dad's always worn glasses.

You're probably right about the inlay.

 

[yetloh]

On the subject of wood, I think you need something really striking which suggests something exotic and highly figured. You wil lonly need a small quantity so it might be best to talk to (or, better still, visit) a supplier who has a wide range from which you can choose. The obvious starting point is a firm that specialises in turning blanks. Living in the south, I don't know who you could go to in your area, but I am sure there are some that could be found using Google.

One of the problems with highly figured exotics is that they are very prone to tear out of the surface grain, but this need not be a problem for you because. with such small components you can do it all with abrasives glued down to a really flat surface e.g glass. This is a technique used by Andrew Crawford, one of the UK's best box makers, and has the advantage of avoiding rounding over the surfaces which always makes a piece look amateurish. That's the first stage of finishing -preparation is paramount on small objects that will be viewed at close quarters - as you will know from your miniatures. So far as finish itself is concerned, it is hard to beat shellac. It is easy to apply (cloth or brush), dries very quickly, is very easy to cut back to remove imperfections and can be abraded or burnished to achieve any level of sheen or gloss that you desire.

Jim

 

[SVB]

Hi Jennifer,

Not sure what kit you have but if you have a small (or larger) router table then I would suggest considering a veneered construction (allows use of highlg figured material with minimum risk / cost in case of re-runs). The use of mdf / ply as the substrate also avoids the possiblity of movement that can be a real pita in small scale work (as I sense you will know from the posts above).

I too can recommend Andrew Crawford - his books on box making are excellent and have easy to follow step by step instructions. Like others have said, Andrew does the first main sanding with abrasive glued down to a mdf (not glass) substrate (120 / 180 grit double sided) and then 240 onwards with a sanding block in the normal way. This is very effective and avoids most of the tear our issues associated with planed exotics. He also used a cabinet scraper a lot - if you have not played with one of these it is a 'must do' as it makes easy work of bringing inlay flush etc and leaves a top class finish with relatively little practice. For me, the most difficult part was 'sharpening' it - I ended up with a device / jig made by Veritas that does job very well although I do feel a bit of a cheat!

Capitan Crispin is an excellent souce of veneer although I have reliably sourced small pieces off ebay for box work.

Anyway - this is turning into a bit of a ramble and you may already know most of it anyway.

Best of luck with your project - post some piccys if you can!

Simon

 

[Jensmith]

Jim & Simon, thanks to you both, that helps a lot.

Simon -

Anyway - this is turning into a bit of a ramble and you may already know most of it anyway.

Not really - this is where my inexperience shows as I really don't know a lot of the basics when it comes to this sort of stuff.

I will have a look for that book as it sounds good and a cabinet scraper!

Thanks for all the advice so far.

 

[Jensmith]

Is this the sort of cabinet scraper I should be looking at?
http://www.axminster.co.uk/clifton-clif ... prod21776/

Just the flat one I assume?

 

[jimi43]

Hi Jennifer

I think that if it were my 60th and my daughter were going to make me something out of wood I would be so very made up, I wouldn't care what it was! It is a wonderful thought and original idea.

My "exotic of the moment" is Cocobolo....a lovely wood, needs a bit of care working it as it is a bit of a hazard but with the right precautions you should be ok.

If you are in need of shortish dark stringing I can let you have thin strips of the Norfolk Bog Oak I have some offcuts of. It is 5000 years old and the only near black British hardwood left today.

Let me know

Cheers

Jim

 

[SVB]

Yep - they will do fine

(for the cost I would buy a couple as I tend to sharpen all the long edges only on both sides in a session - that way you will have eight edges ready to work and so avoid the temptation to keep going with a dull edge mid project - then a cup of tea and re sharpen all before carrying on. They don't take long to sharpen but also loose their edge quickly).

There are loads of info / video on-line on sharpening a cabinet scraper - just google! Here is one to give you a flavour:

http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html

BRgds

S

 

[woodbloke]

Having just finished a box (see Projects section if of any interest :duno: ) there can be a lot of work in even a small box, the problem being that it's still a three dimensional object, with all the problems that something like this will present (hinging and jointing just to name two) If your skills are limited, I'd go for something two dimensional with perhaps some professional lettering on it to mark the occasion. For example, how about a wall mounted clock with a quartz mechanism? You could use a nice bit of something for the main part, it would look good and wouldn't be too difficult to make and the lettering would give it the personal touch...just a thought - Rob

 

[Harbo]

I made these fairly simple boxes a while ago to house my Son-in-Law's Toy Soldiers.
Mitred and splined corners with rebated/fielded top and base. No hinges - bottom has thin mitred inserts - top push fit on.
Fairly simple but quite a few processes and tools required?

I seem to think that Steve Maskery did a piece on a small "secret" box cut on a bandsaw a while back?

Do a Google on Puzzle Boxes

Rod

 

[Jensmith]

Thanks for all the advice so far.

I think there's a lot to be said for learning a few new techniques and it can only help me further down the line. I have time to practice before October so I would like to think I can achieve a nice result.

If you are in need of shortish dark stringing I can let you have thin strips of the Norfolk Bog Oak I have some offcuts of. It is 5000 years old and the only near black British hardwood left today.

Thanks Jim. I'll have a look at this box making book when it arrives and think about what design I want to use. I am tempted by a paler wood for the box with a dark banding but it depends what is best.

Not sure what kit you have but if you have a small (or larger) router table then I would suggest considering a veneered construction (allows use of highlg figured material with minimum risk / cost in case of re-runs). The use of mdf / ply as the substrate also avoids the possiblity of movement that can be a real pita in small scale work (as I sense you will know from the posts above).

Simon - I have a small router table - how is this used for veneering?
Is veneering easy to learn? Is it the even spread of glue that is the most important part and the correct glue?

I would certainly consider this if it is the best way forward.

If the wood is seasoned what are the pitfalls in terms of movement? Is it a case of joints pinging apart and the like?

 

[SVB]

Not sure what kit you have but if you have a small (or larger) router table then I would suggest considering a veneered construction (allows use of highlg figured material with minimum risk / cost in case of re-runs). The use of mdf / ply as the substrate also avoids the possiblity of movement that can be a real pita in small scale work (as I sense you will know from the posts above).

Simon - I have a small router table - how is this used for veneering?
Is veneering easy to learn? Is it the even spread of glue that is the most important part and the correct glue?

I would certainly consider this if it is the best way forward.

If the wood is seasoned what are the pitfalls in terms of movement? Is it a case of joints pinging apart and the like?

Sorry - mixed messages. I was thinking of a simple (half?) rebate joint in MDF or ply hence router table will allow more accuracy than by hand unless you are already skilled with hand tools. It is also a useful tool to cut grooves for inlay etc and box makers stop hindes are easily installed with the router table also removing another hand operation.

Re veneering, it is easily done on a box size scale with some MDF, a couple of G clamps and some pits of angle iron etc to spead the load. Glue is easy also, normal PVA let down by 10% water is fine.

The comment of seansoned wood etc is correct provided you have the ability to thickness and size. However, if you wanted to use a 'special' timber for this, veneer is a more economic route as well as avoiding problems jointing boards etc.

HTH,

Simon

 

[Jensmith]

Ah, that makes sense now. Thanks Simon

Yes, I could do that ok with the router.

You have a point about sizing the wood as I can't plain or thickness it. I did get some veneer offcuts from CambornePete a while ago along with some other wood so I could try a sample to see how it goes. Some of that veneer might be suitable too but only in a small area say for the top of the lid.

Some of it was crinkled - is that usual or should it all be flat?

 

[SVB]

It should be as flat as possible to use. Google Flattening veneer - a bit time consuming in that you will need to do it ahead of the morning you need to make and finish the job but once you have set it up is is only a minute or two to keep an eye on. I have found it gives reliable results and quite straightforward.

S

 

[RogerM]

Is this the sort of cabinet scraper I should be looking at?
http://www.axminster.co.uk/clifton-clif ... prod21776/

Just the flat one I assume?

Jen - You can sometimes get the full set for £5 at some of the woodwork shows. But if pressed for time the straight one will do just fine. I have this set and it's "the business". One of my favourite finishing tools - I'd take it to a "desert Island".

 

[Jensmith]

I've been talking to Andrew Crawford and I'm going to be spending the day with him on the 13th August to make my Dad's box.

From reviews on here and my discussions with him so far it seems like the best way to get a high quality box with the least number of mistakes so I think it's worth it. Hopefully I should learn quite a bit too.

So far it's going to be a box similar to what he does for the weekend courses as given the time and my novice status it needs to be relatively simple but I wanted a few changes so it'll be made from Cherry with a contrasting veneer for the lid and an inlay banding. I've gone for mitred corners too with keys rather than his usual rabbet joints as I think the grain will flow around much better.

He's going to let me know what I can do in preparation and he'll have the cherry prepared for me in advance.

I'm really looking forward to it.

Any suggestions for the contrasting veneer for the lid?
I asked about burr walnut as my Dad likes that but apparently it needs french polishing and it's not suitable for this box.

 

[yetloh]

I've been talking to Andrew Crawford and I'm going to be spending the day with him on the 13th August to make my Dad's box.

From reviews on here and my discussions with him so far it seems like the best way to get a high quality box with the least number of mistakes so I think it's worth it. Hopefully I should learn quite a bit too.

So far it's going to be a box similar to what he does for the weekend courses as given the time and my novice status it needs to be relatively simple but I wanted a few changes so it'll be made from Cherry with a contrasting veneer for the lid and an inlay banding. I've gone for mitred corners too with keys rather than his usual rabbet joints as I think the grain will flow around much better.

He's going to let me know what I can do in preparation and he'll have the cherry prepared for me in advance.

I'm really looking forward to it.

Any suggestions for the contrasting veneer for the lid?
I asked about burr walnut as my Dad likes that but apparently it needs french polishing and it's not suitable for this box.

Hi Jen,

I am sure you will have a great time with Andrew and learn a huge amount. As Jimi suggested, Cocobolo is nice and would comtrast well with the cherry. If as is most likely, you will be using American cherry, this darkens quite a lot over time, so you could use something pale like birds eye maple as an alternative contrasting wood.

Jim

 

[Jensmith]

Thanks Jim
I'll have a look at those two.