1980 hand drill turns out surprisingly good

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AndyT

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I nearly just made the most basic mistake of buying old tools. I was in my favourite local old tools shop yesterday, saw a tool I really liked, but didn't buy it.
Happily, nobody else had bought it in the few hours that the shop had been open while I struggled with my indecisiveness. (I thank the weather gods too - it's cold, damp and miserable out today, and anyone sensible will have stayed indoors.)

Any way, I now have the item in question, and as we have not had a thread about nice old drills for a while I thought I'd share it with you.

It's not some horrible plasticy thing from that 1980 we all remember. It's a Millers Falls model 1980, and according to Randy Roeder's researches here it dates to some time between 1931 and 1944.

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As with so many of the Millers Falls drills, it has a couple of party tricks.

For starters, it's a two speed model, but you don't need to remove anything to change speeds; you just twist the knurled part at the front, and that swaps the drive from one gear to the other, leaving the other one meshed but just spinning round regardless.

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It's also got a ratchet, which can work forwards and backwards. I've not attempted to dismantle the gearbox as there is no need to, but I have had a closer look at the ratchet mechanism. It's simple and ingenious.

The driven side has a set of rectangular holes like this:

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On the handle there is a wedge shaped pin which is spring loaded inside a little barrel. You can lift it up and rotate it 90°. Spot the difference here:

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That rotation changes how the wedge end behaves. Like this, it will drive one way and freewheel the other:

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but like this it will be locked and will drive in either direction

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I reckon that's pretty neat and I also like the way that there are no loose springs or tiny pawls that fly out, Sturmey Archer style, when you take the lid off!

All in all, it's an unusually good tool, in working order. The hex head screw is not original but it is the correct thread (3/16" 32 TPI) so although I might fiddle about and make a better matching one, there is no need to do so.

I'd never seen one of these before, although I know that Millers Falls tools were imported for quite a long time. Has anyone else got anything similar?
 
I built up a small collection of Millers Falls hand drills a while back all started by stumbling across, at a car-boot, one of their very first. I eventually sold them all to an American who offered a price I couldn't refuse. :)

I did not have this particular model, it's very nice. Will you restore it or leave as found?
 
RogerP":l8jbj1st said:
I did not have this particular model, it's very nice. Will you restore it or leave as found?

Since taking the pictures I've oiled the works and wiped the dirt off with a bit of old towel. I consider that done!

I know that there are some people who like to make drills of this vintage look 'factory fresh' and that can be impressive in its own way, but I shall just keep it as it is, ageing gracefully, like its owner!
 
That looks a good design Andy where you can grip the handle or lean against it if you were drilling something hard. Is it very heavy?

Regards Keith
 
Woodchips2":1vfqider said:
That looks a good design Andy where you can grip the handle or lean against it if you were drilling something hard. Is it very heavy?

Regards Keith

Not bad. Obviously, it's a little bit heavier than a basic one, but it's nothing like as unwieldy as the big old Stanley two speed breast drill and suchlike. It doesn't give you the feeling that you are about to snap any small drillbits. Lighter than a battery drill, but not as quick. :wink:
 
I've nothing to add Andy apart from thanking you for sharing this. Many clever touches in that drill.
 
Woodchips2":22wndgpt said:
That looks a good design Andy where you can grip the handle or lean against it if you were drilling something hard. Is it very heavy?

Regards Keith

I like the look of that handle design, too. It looks like it would nestle nicely in the palm of your hand, giving a finer control than the 'fist grip' usual with most hand-drills.

One point I have found to be a good thing on a hand-drill is a keyed chuck (a tip from Paul Chapman - thanks Paul!). The keyless chucks don't seem reliable in gripping drills bigger than about 1/8", but the keyed ones are. The Footprint (blue) drills in particular are well-made and since they have a keyed chuck, reliable up to the full chuck capacity.

All the 'egg-beater' hand-drills seem to struggle with really small drills (1/16" and 3/32"); they are just a bit too heavy to be sensitive enough, and break tiny drills with deperessing frequency (as do cordless leccy drills). I use an Eclipse pin-chuck with a drawing-pin in the handle end as a pressure pad (point inwards!) for really weeny holes; the traditional tool would have been a small bradawl.
 
I have an identical one. It's just a tad heavier than the Goodell Pratt no 5.5 and both are really good for drilling slightly larger holes in both metal and wood.
I have a slight obsession with hand drill so I've tried a good few. I wouldn't want to use a heavier one.
 
AndyT":90l1evc2 said:
Has anyone else got anything similar?
Hi Andy. I've got big brother - Millers Falls No.200 breast drill.

AndyT":90l1evc2 said:
As with so many of the Millers Falls drills, it has a couple of party tricks.
Like yours, this one has the two speeds with knurled gear change, and the ratchet.

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It also has a detachable "auxilliary" breast plate...

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...and when extra leverage is required, the crank handle can be rotated 90degrees.

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However, it requires a screwdriver to rotate the handle - and in the extended position the handle fouls the breastplate #-o

Cheers, Vann.
 

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I've got a broken one somewhere :oops: , my books are better organised.

1935 Cat (sorry Toby no spokeshaves :? )

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Thanks guys.
These drills do stand out from the ordinary models, don't they. I imagine that with the handle extended on your no 200, Vann, you could get tremendous torque ratcheting through about 70° from up against the breastplate to down horizontal.
And using proper bearings means that they keep on going.

Well worth a bit of appreciation and occasional use.
 
i was with Andy when he saw it and didn't buy it; then the sly old fox went back later...... Now i see the photos and explanation, i ask myself "why didn't i buy this really cool item".

Lesson; just because someone else thinks something isn't worth buying, does not mean you have to agree wiyth them.

hugh
 
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