18mm plywood + maximum groove depth

[Mjward]

Previously have surface mounted LED strips, hiding them behind shelf lips on angled profiles.

This time I'm looking at backlighting for a subtler effect, using a straight bit to router a groove the whole length of the shelf near the rear.

I'm a little apprehensive about the depth required for these recessed LED profiles. 8mm required (of my 18mm plywood shelf thickness). It's only for a 16mm width but was just look for guidance/comfort from those that might have done similar?

Thanks in advance

 

[Bingy man]

Edit ..How wide and deep is your shelf ? What is it going to be supporting-weight wise ? and finally where in the shelf do you plan to route the slot ? Towards the back I assume. Sorry for the questions but 10 mm is a reasonable amount of meat left on the bone if it’s for lightweight purposes. You could also opt for the self adhesive led strips that can be joined a specific points available in multiple colours inc remote control but the profile is only a few mm. Hope this helps ..

 

[Mjward]

Edit ..How wide and deep is your shelf ? What is it going to be supporting-weight wise ? and finally where in the shelf do you plan to route the slot ? Towards the back I assume. Sorry for the questions but 10 mm is a reasonable amount of meat left on the bone if it’s for lightweight purposes. You could also opt for the self adhesive led strips that can be joined a specific points available in multiple colours inc remote control but the profile is only a few mm. Hope this helps ..

It's a wide one... Around 1100mm x 300mm (with a 20mm depth x 45mm vertical height hardwood lip at the front). Sagulator has me in the acceptable range and to be honest will be light load stuff, the room is next door to the library I've just built ie those shelves are taking the heavy load. This is just the odd random decorative item.

Towards the back is right re slot, probably 50mm or so from the back. It's the TV room, lounge so wanting to avoid a distracting light. I always use an opal diffuser anyway.

My gut feeling is that there is unlikely to be any kind of significant load 50mm from the back of a shelf and as you say, 10mm is still decent. And talking myself around, it's not a hollow gap either, will be filled with an aluminium profile that will offer some structural rigidity.

 

[Bingy man]

It's a wide one... Around 1100mm x 300mm (with a 20mm depth x 45mm vertical height hardwood lip at the front). Sagulator has me in the acceptable range and to be honest will be light load stuff, the room is next door to the library I've just built ie those shelves are taking the heavy load. This is just the odd random decorative item.

Towards the back is right re slot, probably 50mm or so from the back. It's the TV room, lounge so wanting to avoid a distracting light. I always use an opal diffuser anyway.

My gut feeling is that there is unlikely to be any kind of significant load 50mm from the back of a shelf and as you say, 10mm is still decent. And talking myself around, it's not a hollow gap either, will be filled with an aluminium profile that will offer some structural rigidity.

Well I’d most likely just go for it , I take it the profile will be glued in place with some type of adhesive or glue so as you say it will add a little more strength. Look forward to seeing the end result. I’ve been repairing an old slate roof the last few days and climbing up and the ladder to access the scaffolding is not much fun in the rain - I’d sooner be in my little workshop but Needs must .. ️️️

 

[Mjward]

I'm envious that you're able to do that. I've got a slate roof in dire need of repair but I'm useless at heights. Have a roofer booked in for 2025 but that's a 5 figure repair I'd love to have tackled myself.

Only last week treated myself to a 6m extension ladder and my knees were shaking only half way

Will start a new thread in the Projects section at some point. Today I need to finalise calculations & plans because I'd love to get the timber order delivered whilst it's dry this week.

 

[Bingy man]

I'm envious that you're able to do that. I've got a slate roof in dire need of repair but I'm useless at heights. Have a roofer booked in for 2025 but that's a 5 figure repair I'd love to have tackled myself.

Only last week treated myself to a 6m extension ladder and my knees were shaking only half way

Will start a new thread in the Projects section at some point. Today I need to finalise calculations & plans because I'd love to get the timber order delivered whilst it's dry this week.

As with most of my skills it’s a mixture of being shown how to do it , having the confidence to tackle a slate or tiled roof and a lot of other skills ( brickwork , carpentry for example) the heights thing for me is ok as long as I feel safe , so I insisted on scaffolding for my safety and that of the carers constantly visiting my friend . The other part is knowing when out of your comfort zone and stopping. If you start a thread I’ll be very interested in what you need doing that a 5 figure job. My work on this particular roof is limited to replacing some tiles at the lower edge of the roof and some ridge tiles on the hip if that’s the correct term as they are extremely thin and in danger of sliding off the roof .finally new soffit and facias then cladding and new guttering/ and a new soil pipe oh and new tv Ariel

 

[Mjward]

Scaffolding is a must for sure, £3500 of my quote is for that element, it's an Edwardian property ie you're about 7m off the ground before you start at the lowest part of the roof.

It's not too dissimilar to the work you're doing. Access is incredibly restricted and thus it's all but impossible to do regular maintenance to the exposed timber. It's now all rotten, with the crows reminding me each day by ripping a piece out. Additionally, the roof joists that extend beyond the brick externally have rotted to a point that the roof is now sagging on the ends. Throw in multiple lead valleys that need replacing plus a fair few broken slates, it was one of those jobs I debated getting the scaffolding and doing myself but don't have the knowledge at this point and more importantly, I've been on scaffolding before and remained unsteady unfortunately.

 

[PerryGunn]

You can save another 1mm if you want to, I've used the white version of these - only 7mm deep including the diffuser strip

https://www.buyledstrip.com/en/aluminium-profile-1-meter-7mm-high.html

and I used dotless COB LED strips like these (you don't see the individual LEDs because they have something like 300 LEDs/m)

https://www.instyleled.co.uk/products/led-tape/white-leds/5w-cob-dotless-led-tape/

 

[deema]

For me, when I’ve done roofy stuff it’s a scaffold tower, anchor points drilled into the wall and then a fall arrest harness just in case. I too hate heights, but when you know there is something to gentle stop you if you fall, it gives you confidence.

 

[paulrbarnard]

If the slot is along the length it is going to have a negligible impact on the strength.

 

[Bingy man]

Scaffolding is a must for sure, £3500 of my quote is for that element, it's an Edwardian property ie you're about 7m off the ground before you start at the lowest part of the roof.

It's not too dissimilar to the work you're doing. Access is incredibly restricted and thus it's all but impossible to do regular maintenance to the exposed timber. It's now all rotten, with the crows reminding me each day by ripping a piece out. Additionally, the roof joists that extend beyond the brick externally have rotted to a point that the roof is now sagging on the ends. Throw in multiple lead valleys that need replacing plus a fair few broken slates, it was one of those jobs I debated getting the scaffolding and doing myself but don't have the knowledge at this point and more importantly, I've been on scaffolding before and remained unsteady unfortunately.

£3.500 is extremely high but I guess if it’s complicated property then I’m not entirely surprised , if your not good with working at heights , and also as you say your not great with roof work it should be money well spent-however just be aware that from ground level looking upwards 2 floors +the pitch of the roof bodge jobs and other shoddy work can be difficult to spot . Not suggesting you start ascending the scaffold but someone confident who can climb the ladder and get to the top and take photos/ videos/ FaceTime call you so you can take a good look at whats been done . He/ she doesn’t need to climb on the actual slate roof just the top tier to check the work out- fyi my friend has paid £900 for scaffolding erected , left up for 90 days and then taken down .. and I thought that was expensive

 

[Mjward]

It sound on the high end but I did ask around and was in the realm of "normal" for the size of the house/wrap-around scaffolding tower (as addressing lots of remedial work on the underside of the roof that extends around 40cm from the brick line).

I've told myself that when the tower is up I will be climbing it in early evenings when it's still bright (job planned for early next summer) to paint any remaining exposed timbers at height as well as external cills etc but if I put my big boy pants on then I probably should climb a bit higher and check the work as it progresses. The roofer is the neighbour/friend of a close friend so I'm content with the recommendation but you can never be 100%.

 

[Bingy man]

It sound on the high end but I did ask around and was in the realm of "normal" for the size of the house/wrap-around scaffolding tower (as addressing lots of remedial work on the underside of the roof that extends around 40cm from the brick line).

I've told myself that when the tower is up I will be climbing it in early evenings when it's still bright (job planned for early next summer) to paint any remaining exposed timbers at height as well as external cills etc but if I put my big boy pants on then I probably should climb a bit higher and check the work as it progresses. The roofer is the neighbour/friend of a close friend so I'm content with the recommendation but you can never be 100%.

I hear you , just remember that working off scaffolding is nothing like working from a ladder or small tower , it’s does however flex at times especially if it’s windy but you get used to it . Just try it before doing any work , you will be amazed at how the surrounding area looks from a decent height. A harness and a fall arrest system will give you that extra feeling of being safe .. the recommendation of your roofer sounds positive but yes it’s worth checking as once the scaffolding is removed it’s out of sight ..

 

[Bingy man]

I added these signs as the carers haven’t got a clue about safety- I’ve asked them to sound their car horns 3 times to let me know they are entering the house but they are as thick as 2 short planks .. the one taped to the porch door is what they see when leaving the house .

 

[HOJ]

A harness and a fall arrest system will give you that extra feeling of being safe

I've never used a fall harness when working up on a scaffold, seems more of a liability to me, but if your not good on ladders get one on for getting up and down.

I would also strongly recommend getting a winch put up on the scaff, getting tools and materials up there is a real pain, on my most recent roofing job we bought an electric one, on a swivel arm, what a game changer.

 

[Bingy man]

I've never used a fall harness when working up on a scaffold, seems more of a liability to me, but if your not good on ladders get one on for getting up and down.

I would also strongly recommend getting a winch put up on the scaff, getting tools and materials up there is a real pain, on my most recent roofing job we bought an electric one, on a swivel arm, what a game changer.

View attachment 188415

Yes I’m not one for the harness myself although I have one it’s too restrictive but I’d not deter anyone else from using one .. as for that hoist -wow !!! I’d use one myself on this roofing job I’m doing but it’s a one off so would likely not be used again .

 

[PerryGunn]

... as for that hoist -wow !!! I’d use one myself on this roofing job I’m doing but it’s a one off so would likely not be used again .

They have other uses - I'm looking at putting one in my attic. Humping boxes, cases etc. up and down the loft ladder is becoming more of a pain in the coccyx as I get older and at about £150 for a hoist and cargo net, it's starting to look very tempting.