16 Amp supply for bandsaw

[Bodger7]

I have ordered a new bandsaw and have just noticed that it says that a 16 amp supply is needed. Can anyone explain in simple language what that entails please. The bandsaw motor is 1.5 kw but my lathe is 2.2 kw and that runs off a 13 amp plug. My workshop electricity runs from my domestic supply and relies on a spur taken from a household ring main that gets little use. I have a small consumer unit in my workshop with trip switches for both the lights and sockets in the workshop. I sometimes run lights, 2 fan heaters and lathe at the same time with no problems with overload. When using the bandsaw I would not be running the lathe at the same time. Does the requirement for 16 amps mean that I need to create a separate circuit for the bandsaw or have a new cable fitted going back to the household consumer unit? Or can I simply replace a 13 amp socket with a 16 amp socket?
Any advice would be very helpful, thank you.

 

[artie]

I have ordered a new bandsaw and have just noticed that it says that a 16 amp supply is needed. Can anyone explain in simple language what that entails please.

£30 quid and an electrician

 

[Sideways]

If the bandsaw has lightweight band wheels top and bottom there shouldn't be too much inertia to overcome when starting. In that case I would make a simple adapter with a 13A plug to a 16A trailing socket that matches whatever plug is fitted to the bandsaw. Plug your bandsaw into an ordinary outlet through that.
If it pops fuses in the 13A plug, or shows any sign of overheat over time, get a 16A outlet properly fitted. 16A plugs whether "industrial" or French / German styles don't have a fuse. You can't wire those types of socket into a garage ring main. They need to be protected by a 16A circuit breaker.
Chances are the bandsaw will run fine and be safe on a simple adapter. I have run an Axy trade bandsaw that way without problems and verified that the current was not overloading anything.
If you have a saw with massive heavy wheels, the motor will draw more current and for longer to get those heavy wheels moving and the adapter would be neither sensible nor safe.
Get proper advice if at all in doubt.
You're spurred off a ring main so most likely you have just 20A max available. A 3kW heater will use up 12 of those amps, lights very little.
My advice is turn off the heater before using your saw, bandsaw, or other high power tools like a big router. You may get away with a dust extractor at the same time as one tool / machine.

 

[nickds1]

16A connectors are known as "Commando" connectors. They come in two colours: yellow for 110V site work and blue for 240V. Both 16A and 32A versions are available. Screwfix and TLC etc. will have all the bits.

As mentioned, they are not fused and generally not switched either (switched ones are pretty expensive). The normal way to power a 16A socket (female) is via a dedicated 2.5 T&E spur from the consumer unit (CU) via a 16A or 20A C-rated MCB. The whole installation must be protected by a 30mA RCD. Note that by default, MCBs are B-rated (domestic) - the C-rating prevents them tripping when the saw/whatever starts up as the switch-on surge of an inductive motor load will often cause a B-rated MCB to nuisance trip.

Whatever, you shouldn't do this as an amateur - you need a proper electrician with Part P certification (ask to see it) as they'll need to check that the RCD and earthing protection is working and the installation is safe and to 18th ed. regs. There is also a risk that if you do the work yourself and there is a problem, your insurance may be invalid (check this).

Please note that these little test plugs with a button that say they can check an RCD are NOT a reliable check. The regs require the RCD to disconnect in a specific time under a variety of conditions. The test kit for this is something only qualified electricians will have (it's expensive) and know how to use - the little plug-and-button testers only check that the RCD disconnects eventually, by which time you might be seriously injured or worse.

Also note that just because an RCD is new and a decent make does not guarantee it works correctly or to regs. I've had new RCDs that fail compliance testing, i.e. they're effectively DOA. Never by default trust anything on which your safety may depend.

It's the end-to-end final installation that needs to be checked, not just the individual components.

 

[Spectric]

Hi

I can say that the Record BS400 runs without issues on a 13 amp plug, not suprising as it is only a 2Kw motor but is a 16 inch bandsaw.

 

[nickds1]

Your BS400 (like my BS350) is designed to run off a 13A supply, i.e. the start-up surge, which can be several times the normal running current, is limited.

The OP stated that their saw requires a 16A supply, therefore trying to jump off a BS standard 13A socket would be a bad plan.

 

[pcb1962]

I ran my 16A Kity 619 saw (2.6Kw motor) on a 13A plug for a few years, it would blow the fuse on startup maybe a couple of times a year.

 

[Bodger7]

If the bandsaw has lightweight band wheels top and bottom there shouldn't be too much inertia to overcome when starting. In that case I would make a simple adapter with a 13A plug to a 16A trailing socket that matches whatever plug is fitted to the bandsaw. Plug your bandsaw into an ordinary outlet through that.

Thank you Sideways. The bandsaw in question is an Axminster Trade AT3327B and it would be helpful to compare the specification of your machine if that were possible. I note what you say about turning off other electrical items and that seems good advice.

Hi
I can say that the Record BS400 runs without issues on a 13 amp plug, not suprising as it is only a 2Kw motor but is a 16 inch bandsaw.

Hi Roy - Thanks for your message. I am wondering whether I might be better going for the Record as it seems to have similar capabilities to the Axi but without the need for the 16 Amp supply. Have you been pleased with yours?

Nickds1 and pcb1962 - Thank you for your advice/comments. These all help me in reaching a balanced decision. It is a pity that I hadn't noticed the 16 Amp requirement (or didn't realise its significance) earlier.

 

[Spectric]

Hi

The Record BS 400 is a good machine, it has cast wheels and a quick blade tensioner so you can leave it untensioned when not in use. It is important to note that the blades that come with the machine are rubbish, decent blades are what makes a bandsaw cut as it should, a lot of people on these forums use blades from Tuffsaws, I use there premium blades that are a slightly thiner gauge and so tension easier and the M42 blades which work well with man made boards and don't dull easily. The only issue I have is cutting bevels with the table tilted, the fence needs repositioning which can be a pain. There are options, Record sell the Sabre fence as an upgrade or I brought the Kreg fence and now have the Record on for most task and the Kreg for bevels with table tilted.

 

[Spectric]

Hi

I would say that Axminster saw closely resembles the Record machine, more than likely both come out of the same factory. It states it is fitted with a 16 amp plug, it is only a 1.5Kw motor which I think is the output power which is the same as the BS400, 2Kw input & 1.5Kw output. The biggest difference is the price and that the Axi uses beaings for blade guides.

 

[Bodger7]

Thank you again Roy.

 

[nickds1]

I ran my 16A Kity 619 saw (2.6Kw motor) on a 13A plug for a few years, it would blow the fuse on startup maybe a couple of times a year.

No disrespect, but that doesn't make it right! I have a Kity 1619 which, whilst I was testing it, regularly blew the 13A fuse on startup. I very quickly rapped my own knuckles and installed a proper 16A C-rated supply.

 

[Sideways]

Thank you Sideways. The bandsaw in question is an Axminster Trade AT3327B and it would be helpful to compare the specification of your machine if that were possible. I note what you say about turning off other electrical items and that seems good advice.

Hi,
The machine was the same as yours, or possibly the SBW4300B which is essentially the same thing under an earlier name.
It has a 1.5kW motor and the band wheels are quite lightweight.
It has had over a year of frequent use in a shared space (not one DIY owner) and never blew a fuse on the simple adaptor lead that I described.
I have all the necessary and yes, expensive, test gear needed to measure electrical current during and after startup and that saw did not require a 16A supply. I left it on the adapter simply to preserve the full warranty.
In my experience of several machines, 1.5kW induction motors will usually run without blowing fuses via a 13A plug. There is an Axminster Harvey tablesaw fitted with a 1.6kW motor specifically it will reliably run through a 13A plug.. On the other hand, 2kW motors usually blow the fuses when starting up.
I recognise that there are exceptions and others will may have different experiences. 13A fuses are made to quite a crude tolerance. If you replace enough of them, chances are that you will eventually stumble on a more robust one and that may last some time. Regular replacement of fuses is a sign of overload, ageing and the need for a proper 16A supply.
The starting point is always to take notice of manufacturers recommendations but sometimes they are a little more prudent than strictly necessary, just as sometimes they are careless. In this case, a 16A plug may have been fitted simply because it better complements a machine with "trade" in the title.
Try it but just check the 13A plug at the end of the first week and then every few months for visble signs of overheating until you have confidence in it.

 

[Bodger7]

Hi Sideways, that is what I hoped you would say. Axminster's website categorically states that the AT3327B "was previously known as the SBW4300B". I am going to start as you suggest but I will bear in mind what Nick has said and if fuses are blown, even once, I will get a new 2.5 spur fitted from the consumer unit. I will seek professional help with that job. Thank you all.

 

[Gary_S]

I used a caravan adapter for my table saw and band saw for 2 years. As I never ran them concurrently I had no problems. However, you cannot start one if you are running a 2KW heater for example or the fuse pops.
I ended up running cable under the track outside my house and installing a consumer unit and a properly rated spur. It was for the convenience of full time power and lights though, not because the caravan adapters didn't work. I still use them on the spur because the I didn't want to wire in 16a sockets.

 

[XH558]

My Axminster thicknesser trips the Breaker in my shed. its rated at 16A. If I run a trailing lead from the outside socket at the house it works fine. The Breaker for that circuit is 32A so I will be upgrading by shed breaker to 32A for the ring main in the shed. Oh, the thicknesser runs off a 13Amp plug top.
I'm happy to change the device myself as a competent person but as others have said, if you have any doubts then a few quid is a great investment in your safety and peace of mind.

 

[Bodger7]

Thank you XH. Since my last post I decided to take advice from a local electrician. I explained the situation and he was of the opinion that the requirement for a 16 amp supply was due to an excess of caution by the manufacturer as the machine is trade rated. He has made me up a lead with a 13 amp plug and a Commando (why Commando?)16 amp socket. We will give this a try and reconsider the situation if anything blows. I will have to wait for the machine to arrive now. I will update when I have tried it out.

 

[nickds1]

My Axminster thicknesser trips the Breaker in my shed. its rated at 16A. If I run a trailing lead from the outside socket at the house it works fine. The Breaker for that circuit is 32A so I will be upgrading by shed breaker to 32A for the ring main in the shed. Oh, the thicknesser runs off a 13Amp plug top.
I'm happy to change the device myself as a competent person but as others have said, if you have any doubts then a few quid is a great investment in your safety and peace of mind.

Just putting a bigger breaker until it doesn't trip any more is not a good or safe approach. The breaker is there to protect the whole circuit, including the cables and socket.

Swap the existing MCB for the spur for a 16A or 20A C-rated breaker. That should safely solve the trip issue. Only a few quid.

 

[porker]

Just putting a bigger breaker until it doesn't trip any more is not a good or safe approach. The breaker is there to protect the whole circuit, including the cables and socket.

Swap the existing MCB for the spur for a 16A or 20A C-rated breaker. That should safely solve the trip issue. Only a few quid.

Agree, that is the correct approach. If it's running OK from a 13A plug top then it must be the inrush tripping your 16A breaker. Plenty of people on here have solved this issue with a C type breaker of the same rating. Also with your shed are you sure you have a ring final circuit? Sounds like it could be a radial or a spur in which case changing the breaker to 32A is not safe as the wiring to your shed may not be rated high enough.

 

[Jelly]

a Commando (why Commando?)16 amp socket.

It's the trade name that MK (purveyor of fine plugs and whatnot) used when they launched their range of CEE17 (now IEC60309) plugs and sockets in the UK...

I have always called them "CEE-Form" rather than "Commando", because the latter seems oddly incongruous.