15mm Birch Plywood Draws

[segovia]

Hi

I am building some workshop cabinets from 19mm MDF which will have 1200mm * 200mm * 500mm sliding drawers. I have selected 15mm birch plywood. What advice would you give for the jointing the drawer corners. I intend to rabbet the bottom of teh draw so it slides in before closing

John

 

[9fingers]

I made one recently for the workshop and used shallow dados (2mm) for alignment and metal cross dowels and bolts.
The front and back of the drawer overhang the sides a few mm to enclose the full extension slides.
Not really a woodworking joint but practical quick strong etc

Bob

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I have made draw boxes from 12mm Birch ply using biscuits for the joints and they are still going strong.
I used two No 10 biscuits for a 200mm deep draw and 3 for a 300mm draw, with 6mm ply for the bottoms glues in to the rebates.

Pete

 

[Waka]

Another method would be to use pocket hole screws, these will be plenty strong enough. If you don't have the kreg gear then an ideal opportunity to buy one.

 

[9fingers]

It's one hell of a big drawer Waka! I'd be a bit concerned about the localised stress of the pocket hole solution in this case.

BTW I've just bought the Rutlands version of the pocket hole jig. All metal and adjustable for differing material thickness. Tolerable price in their current 15% off everything sale with free postage too

Bob

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi John,

Have a look at this Wood Whisperer video. It will take you through everything and all you have to do is remember to cut the dados with a router.

HTH,
Neil

 

[Waka]

It's one hell of a big drawer Waka! I'd be a bit concerned about the localised stress of the pocket hole solution in this case.

BTW I've just bought the Rutlands version of the pocket hole jig. All metal and adjustable for differing material thickness. Tolerable price in their current 15% off everything sale with free postage too

Bob

Must be age creeping in I didn't notice the measurements. Note to self, pay more attention.

 

[rileytoolworks]

I like Pete have done them with biscuits (I used 12mm ply). Groove for the bottom and glue it in place. IIRC one of the drawers I made was similar in size to yours, and it's as solid as a rock.
Hope that helps.

Adam.

 

[9fingers]

Two important points for strong drawer boxes especially for practical workshop/kitchen use

1) Always use man made boards preferably birch ply and
2)Always glue every joint.

This stops things starting to move which will then in turn start stressing the joints.

Bob

 

[Mark A]

BTW I've just bought the Rutlands version of the pocket hole jig. All metal and adjustable for differing material thickness. Bob

I bought one of these too. Works great. But one thing - use the depth stops supplied for the drill bit, otherwise you start to make nice little holes in the base and the pocket holes themselves gradually get deeper and deeper til the screw pops through the other side of the piece of wood you are trying to join. Don't ask how I know :roll:

Mark

 

[9fingers]

I downloaded some destructions from the trend site which cover their similar, non adjustable one.

Also for reference, the pocket angle is 16 degrees which can be handy for calculating the thickness of packing pieces if you want to place a pocket in a precise position.

Bob

 

[barkwindjammer]

It's one hell of a big drawer Waka! I'd be a bit concerned about the localised stress of the pocket hole solution in this case.

BTW I've just bought the Rutlands version of the pocket hole jig. All metal and adjustable for differing material thickness. Tolerable price in their current 15% off everything sale with free postage too

Bob

Great 'heads-up' Bob, I've just ordered one too.

 

[Lord Kitchener]

It's one hell of a big drawer Waka! I'd be a bit concerned about the localised stress of the pocket hole solution in this case.

BTW I've just bought the Rutlands version of the pocket hole jig. All metal and adjustable for differing material thickness. Tolerable price in their current 15% off everything sale with free postage too

Bob

Must be age creeping in I didn't notice the measurements. Note to self, pay more attention.

Pocket screws will be ideal, and just as good as any other method. If you have any worries, just use more.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've got the Kreg pocket hole set: love it.

 

[segovia]

Hi


Thanks I may cut a small rabbet and use my pocket hole Jig, I was thinking of all sorts of fancy locking joints but the Kreg should do it.

I am also going to change the drawer base from 16mm to 15 mm after watching the fine woodworking video, thanks

John

 

[Lord Kitchener]

I was thinking of all sorts of fancy locking joints but the Kreg should do it.

The Kreg WILL do it.


The thing with pocket screws is that you need to have the joint cramped up tight before running the screws in, otherwise the pieces will shift, and the joint will be forced slightly open as the screw exits the first piece and enters the second.

 

[Shrubby]

John
I would copy commercially made industrial furniture. Finger(box) joints or drawer lock joints in birch ply and Halflap(Brookman) dovetails in solid wood . A drawer that large full of tools will put a lot of stress on the front/side joint.
Are you planning to use metal runners? drawers which are wide but short in length can twist and stick. It might be worth making a quick prototype from mdf offcuts before machining up your Birch
Good luck
Matt

 

[bosshogg]

I've just built a cabinet from 18mm ply, used lock mitre joints throughout, good way of making ply joints...bosshogg

 

[Benchwayze]

I have used finger joints in birch ply in the past. Cut on a 'wobble-saw' in fact. With screws driven into the corners, they lasted well for workshops. So I don't see any reason why dovetails shouldn't work. I would suggest a dovetail jig though for ease and a cleaner cut.

Agree the Kreg jig will do the job too. I'd still want to use glue though on a drawer.

HTH
John