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[Thallow]

Hi All
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[jasonB]

You can buy fire proofing paints and varnishes. Have used Nullifire to make old doors meet fire regs in conversion work.

The other alternative is to fix some 6mm Superlux or Monolux to the inner face of the cabinet, this is a fibre/cement board.

Jason

 

[Losos]

J
Another possibility, if you are a bit handy with the ol' tin snips, is to get some sheet aluminium from a model or engineering supplier and just screw to the inside. Use thin stuff, it'll provide a sort of fire wall and should look OK if you use new sheet. I wouldn't recommend trying to 're-cycle' anything, that usually ends up looking rubbish!!

 

[Anonymous]

I recently had a wood burner installed and they used something called masterboard which is similar I guess to what Jason has sudgested, to line the fireplace opening so as to comply with building regs (even though the opening was made of brick :roll: ). Aparently easy to fix with screws etc, smooth and neat, not sure what they cut it with, a hand saw, circular or abrasive wheel?
cheers Mr S

 

[Scrit]

I recently had a wood burner installed and they used something called masterboard..... ..... not sure what they cut it with, a hand saw, circular or abrasive wheel?

Jigsaw, believe it or not, at least that's what I've used in the past. About as dusty as plasterboard. In fact a similar composition.

Scrit

 

[mel]

liquid based fireproofing is generally expensive
have you thought about making the cupboard big enough to line it out in plasterboard ???
cheap as chips
rule of thumb for plasterboard is 1/2" half an hour 1"= 1 hr fire protection

 

[wrightclan]

... not sure what they cut it with, a hand saw, circular or abrasive wheel?
cheers Mr S

Just cuts with a stanley knife. Score a line, and it snaps like plasterboard. Then score it on the fold at the back. For cutting apertures etc. use a jigsaw or rotozip. (Spent a couple years installling wood stoves, lining chimneys etc.)

Masterboard, supalux, glassroc, etc. are all pretty much the same thing. Look much like plasterboard, but there's no paper facing, and instead they are reinforced with ceramic fibres.

At the B&Q's around here, you can get quarter sheets for around £10.

Brad

 

[tiler99]

Better than a Stanley knife is this ebay item
I use one when cutting boards prior to laying ceramic floor tiles over wooden floors.

 

[wrightclan]

... they used something called masterboard ... to line the fireplace opening so as to comply with building regs (even though the opening was made of brick :roll: ). ...
cheers Mr S

I think they have a strange interpretation of building regs. IIRC the building regs in question would stipulate distances from combustible materials (and use of non-combustible materials to protect combustibles). Brick certainly qualifies as a non-combustible. Unless there was some other combustible in the area that neither you nor I are thinking of. (Believe me I've seen some strange things in walls near fire openings.) :shock:

Brad

 

[Thallow]

Hi All
Many thanks for all of the info....
Jason B the Nullfire stuff is just what I am looking for - many thanks.

Losos - thanks for the suggestion but SWMBO likes the look of the oak on the inside....:roll:

Mr spanton & Mel - unfortunately the cupboard is not wide enough to accommodate an extra 6mm internal lining, but thanks for the idea
(I am redoing a woodburning hearth soon so I will bear the other info in mind.)

I will let you know how i get on with the Nullfire

Cheers all

J

 

[johnnyb]

dont bother. if you have a fault in your meter tails, meter etc a small amount of paint on proofing wont make much difference. i once cleaned up a house that had a fire from this cause. the person who owned the house was a cable splicer!!! he smelt the insulation the day before but couldnt identify the smell. ps out of maybe 1000 fires only one was caused by this so very uncommon. appliance fires are much more common.

 

[Taffy Turner]

I thought Oak was just about fireproof anyway?

Isn't this why it was traditionally used as the lintel in the huge, old fashioned fireplaces? Something to do with the outside getting charred and protecting the inside from the heat IIRC.

I seem to remember there was a thread on here about this subject a while back - a quick search may be in order methinks.

Gary

 

[davy_owen_88]

I understand your concern, but it really isn't necessary. Assuming your house electrics are up to current regulations and haven't been tampered with by incompetent DIY'ers there is no risk of the service-fuse/meter/consumer unit being the cause of any problems.

Almost all electrical fires stem from inadequate cable sizing with overrated fuses, containing the CU in a fireproof box won't stop this.

Insulating the box is definitely a bad idea. 2 equations I just made up:

Electricity + resistance = heat
Cable insulation + heat = bad

The best bet is to just forget the idea of fireproofing the box and test your smoke alarms regularly.

Davy