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- Thread starter thegsey
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MARK.B.
Established Member
imho if you have the space and the budget then go for a bigger saw ,invest in some good quality blades as well.
Sorry not much help i know , let us know what you get
Sorry not much help i know , let us know what you get
Paddy Roxburgh
Established Member
I would generally say the bigger the better, however I recently had to move my Wadkin bandsaw (don't know the model but it's more than8 foot tall and probably weighs more than a ton) across the workshop at the dock on an uneven floor going under joists that were too low, it was a days work for 2 people. At the time I was feeling very envious of people with smaller bandsaws who can just put them on a skate and roll them about. I have a Wadkin AGS10 table saw and find that fine to move with a wheel kit I bought some years ago. Now that the bandsaw is moved I am no longer envious of people with smaller ones.
Paddy
Paddy
Bigger is better. However, most people when considering their first saw are intimidated by a big blade wizzing around, for some reason it 'seems' more dangerous than a smaller blade. You don't have to put a big blade in a big saw, there are limits as to how small you can go, but it allows you to use for instance a small panel cutting blade (cheaper than its equivalent big brother with no disadvantage) where you only normally need circa 2" maximum projecting.
There is little IMO to be gained for getting a saw with a blade size larger than 450, and I have selected a 400 for my own saw that will cut almost 5 1/2". I would have been just as happy with a 450 blade size.
There are new regulations (a few years back) I believe for saws with blades over 12" which killed off the Sedgwick TA400 and required a redesign of their 450. The blade crown guard must cover the entire blade even when tilted and this can only I understand be achieved with an overhead crown guard rather then a guard fixed to the riving knife.
The extra HP and mass make for a far better saw that can do more. So, I can't think of a downside if you can fit one in in Go for it
There is little IMO to be gained for getting a saw with a blade size larger than 450, and I have selected a 400 for my own saw that will cut almost 5 1/2". I would have been just as happy with a 450 blade size.
There are new regulations (a few years back) I believe for saws with blades over 12" which killed off the Sedgwick TA400 and required a redesign of their 450. The blade crown guard must cover the entire blade even when tilted and this can only I understand be achieved with an overhead crown guard rather then a guard fixed to the riving knife.
The extra HP and mass make for a far better saw that can do more. So, I can't think of a downside if you can fit one in in Go for it
Paddy Roxburgh
Established Member
Deema, a big blade doesn't just seem more dangerous, it is more dangerous. The bigger the blade the faster it moves and the more devastating kick back can be. I'm careful on any saw, but particularly so on some of the monster table saws I've used in the past. My saw is quite small and I usually run a 10" but can it take a 12" blade, I have one for ripping but very rarely use it as I tend to rip anything over 3" on the bandsaw.
Paddy
Paddy
The circumferential speed of any circular blade should be the about the same. A smaller blade should be spinning at a higher speed than a larger diameter blade to achieve this. This is what restricts the size of blade that can be used on a saw without speed variation.
The amount if blade protruding out of the saw cabinet should be the same irrespective of the blade size for a given thickness of stuff being cut. It follows that the risk of kick back is similar.
The amount if blade protruding out of the saw cabinet should be the same irrespective of the blade size for a given thickness of stuff being cut. It follows that the risk of kick back is similar.
woodbrains
Established Member
Hello,
If you are making furniture and the like, get a 10 inch saw, or possibly a 12. Big joinery work then possibly get bigger. I have made furniture for donkey's years with a 10 inch saw and they are optimal IMO. A Wadkin 10 AGS is a fine saw. You are going to want a couple of blades of each type you use, so the cost of quality blades and their sharpening is kept to a sensible amount. A depth of cut of 3+ inches for a 10 in saw is plenty for furniture. Also, it is less likely you'll get a single phase saw at 14 inch and not at all bigger. Another thing to consider; your electricity bill. Running a 5 HP saw (with a 2HP extractor) for a long period is costly, especially when you are just ripping 3/4 inch timber!
A 10 inch cabinet saw is also optimal for things like tenon jigs and the like; they have much less blade exposed for the depth of cut up to their maximum.
Mike.
If you are making furniture and the like, get a 10 inch saw, or possibly a 12. Big joinery work then possibly get bigger. I have made furniture for donkey's years with a 10 inch saw and they are optimal IMO. A Wadkin 10 AGS is a fine saw. You are going to want a couple of blades of each type you use, so the cost of quality blades and their sharpening is kept to a sensible amount. A depth of cut of 3+ inches for a 10 in saw is plenty for furniture. Also, it is less likely you'll get a single phase saw at 14 inch and not at all bigger. Another thing to consider; your electricity bill. Running a 5 HP saw (with a 2HP extractor) for a long period is costly, especially when you are just ripping 3/4 inch timber!
A 10 inch cabinet saw is also optimal for things like tenon jigs and the like; they have much less blade exposed for the depth of cut up to their maximum.
Mike.
RobinBHM
Established Member
I would say a 10" or 12" machine is fine for most work.
Its rare to cut timber thicker than 3" even for joinery.
When choosing a machine I put the quality of the rip fence and tilting mechanism as more important than blade diameter. Also for the maximum range of operations and precision I would choose a machine with a sliding table or outrigger -hugely useful for lots of cabinetmaking operations
Wadkin, Startrite or Multico are all good, even old SCM machines. Less choice for single phase of course
Its rare to cut timber thicker than 3" even for joinery.
When choosing a machine I put the quality of the rip fence and tilting mechanism as more important than blade diameter. Also for the maximum range of operations and precision I would choose a machine with a sliding table or outrigger -hugely useful for lots of cabinetmaking operations
Wadkin, Startrite or Multico are all good, even old SCM machines. Less choice for single phase of course
