1.1 - Wadkin RS Lathe ¦¦ Elephants Foot + Tool Rest

[JohnerH]

Here we go!

On Friday I decided to get started with the refurbishment,

First on the deck, the elephants foot and the tool rest,

First job, get the tool rest out, this was tricky as the tool rest hadn't been removed from the holder in a VERY long time, it was genuinely stuck and after unscrewing the fastener it just didn't budge, like... at all..

What to do? Well, I slathered WD40 on the sides, the underneath's, the tops, the everything around the stem, leaving it overnight to think about it's sins.

Next day came in and repeated the process.... more WD40...

On day 2, after clearing the back of my garage (it was on the to-do list for the weekend), I decided to come in and start tapping it on both sides with a rubber mallet, right to left, left to right, it began loosening up, until finally,

Tah... Dah..

After this everything else came out nicely,

Everything looks in ok nick, I'll probably put all the small pieces through the dip (term I coined when I talk bout the electrolysis jig/tank I've been using for a few years now to remove rust and paint, prepping metal for coting and painting).

As for the stem et al, I'll probably have to it through the rotation steel brush and/or paint stripper (if anyone has any good ideas as to what paint stripper to use for this kind of iron, suggest are welcome!)

Top looks like,

Main body,

Here we go... all stripped and reading for paint removal and prep...

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Use PlusGas or similar for jobs like this rather than WD40 - it's far more efficient.

 

[JohnerH]

Use PlusGas or similar for jobs like this rather than WD40 - it's far more efficient.

Thanking you,

Added to the shopping list for a try.

 

[JohnerH]

Moving on...

Welcome to the dip,

Which after 12h produced this,

and after wire wheeling,

Which is not bad at all, now...

The next challenge is unscrewing those flat screws which at the moment are seized to high heaven (any ideas?). Currently bathed in WD40, I'm going to let it sit and see if something get's through the threads...

Next on the dip,

The Elephant's Foot tool rest holder....

More to come...

 

[Fitzroy]

Do you need to unscrew them, or just really want to? I have before spent hours, perhaps days, trying to ‘fix something’ that was only broken in my head!

 

[JohnerH]

Do you need to unscrew them, or just really want to? I have before spent hours, perhaps days, trying to ‘fix something’ that was only broken in my head!

Well, yes and no...

Is it broken? No... Does it need fixing? The screw could to with a Polish re-work...

But more than anything it all needs powder coating for long life.

With that being said there was liquid coming out from in-between the contact surfaces which makes me believe its not completely flush, which does bother me and more importantly could lead to corrosion in time.

But yes good point well made.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have the identical West German battery charger.

 

[SammyQ]

Use PlusGas or similar for jobs like this rather than WD40 - it's far more efficient.

Or, diesel. Give it time.

 

[JohnerH]

I have the identical West German battery charger.

Aren't they just so good?

Old stuff is just great.

Or, diesel. Give it time.

10-4,

Although, diesel, whilst electrolysisinging...

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Isn't it diesel and ATF mixed that often gets recommended?

 

[Inspector]

Isn't it diesel and ATF mixed that often gets recommended?

Acetone and ATF mixed 50/50 is what I have heard the most often. WD40 was made to displace water and it barely does that. As a penetrating oil there are others that are better.

Pete

 

[JohnerH]

When we say ATF, I assume we're talking about, Automatic transmission fluid?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

WD40 was made to displace water and it barely does that.

Pete

I've read that it's unwise to use WD40 on electrics as it can cause intermittent faults.

 

[schnapps95]

The big flat screws are 3/8" bsw countersunk if you get stuck for these i have box full of them 1-1/2" long which you would able to cut to the length required regards Stan...

Welcome to the dip,

View attachment 178986View attachment 178987

Which after 12h produced this,

View attachment 178988

and after wire wheeling,

View attachment 178989View attachment 178990

Which is not bad at all, now...

The next challenge is unscrewing those flat screws which at the moment are seized to high heaven (any ideas?). Currently bathed in WD40, I'm going to let it sit and see if something get's through the threads...

Next on the dip,

View attachment 178991View attachment 178992

The Elephant's Foot tool rest holder....

More to come...

 

[schnapps95]

Moving on...

Welcome to the dip,

View attachment 178986View attachment 178987

Which after 12h produced this,

View attachment 178988

and after wire wheeling,

View attachment 178989View attachment 178990

Which is not bad at all, now...

The next challenge is unscrewing those flat screws which at the moment are seized to high heaven (any ideas?). Currently bathed in WD40, I'm going to let it sit and see if something get's through the threads...

Next on the dip,

View attachment 178991View attachment 178992

The Elephant's Foot tool rest holder....

More to come...

Those big flat screws are 3/8" bsw countersunk machine screws if you get stuck for some i have a full box of them but 1-1/2" long which you would be able to cut to your required length regards Stan

 

[deema]

Diesel or kerosene is one of the best penetrating fluids.just submerge and wait. It also removed gunk ready for electrolysis. You can use it instead of water / washing soda….. spark erosion uses kerosene. I don’t mix it with ATF as that makes a good paint stripper and often I’m just getting things apart.

Penetrating fluid does not always get the job done, so then it’s time for either percussion or heat. Just be careful to warm up cast iron evenly or it can crack.
Percussion often works, a friend gave me a percussion screwdriver. You hit it with a hammer and it turns the screw slightly at the instant of the impact. Very very effective. Alternatively an impact driver is also you friend.

 

[JohnerH]

Those big flat screws are 3/8" bsw countersunk machine screws if you get stuck for some i have a full box of them but 1-1/2" long which you would be able to cut to your required length regards Stan

Really appreciate the offer @schnapps95, see if I can manage to get them off with needing to replace them

Diesel or kerosene is one of the best penetrating fluids.just submerge and wait. It also removed gunk ready for electrolysis. You can use it instead of water / washing soda….. spark erosion uses kerosene. I don’t mix it with ATF as that makes a good paint stripper and often I’m just getting things apart.

Penetrating fluid does not always get the job done, so then it’s time for either percussion or heat. Just be careful to warm up cast iron evenly or it can crack.
Percussion often works, a friend gave me a percussion screwdriver. You hit it with a hammer and it turns the screw slightly at the instant of the impact. Very very effective. Alternatively an impact driver is also you friend.

@deema,

Electrolysis in my experience usually gets rid of gunk (at least the majority and sometimes paint), I'm concern about using these sorts of flammable liquids.

I understand the appeal et al but ultimately how do I then dispose of them? The thought of keeping those liquids around in storage doesn't appeal to me given my experience and ADR training

Great idea on the percussion screwdriver, just need to find one to give it a go.

 

[Fergie 307]

Well, yes and no...

Is it broken? No... Does it need fixing? The screw could to with a Polish re-work...

But more than anything it all needs powder coating for long life.

With that being said there was liquid coming out from in-between the contact surfaces which makes me believe its not completely flush, which does bother me and more importantly could lead to corrosion in time.

But yes good point well made.

I would avoid powder coating. Any subsequent damage is not easy to repair and any moisture will eventually get under the thin plastic coat and lift it, as will oil. Good old paint is far better, and cheaper too.

 

[Fergie 307]

Diesel or kerosene is one of the best penetrating fluids.just submerge and wait. It also removed gunk ready for electrolysis. You can use it instead of water / washing soda….. spark erosion uses kerosene. I don’t mix it with ATF as that makes a good paint stripper and often I’m just getting things apart.

Penetrating fluid does not always get the job done, so then it’s time for either percussion or heat. Just be careful to warm up cast iron evenly or it can crack.
Percussion often works, a friend gave me a percussion screwdriver. You hit it with a hammer and it turns the screw slightly at the instant of the impact. Very very effective. Alternatively an impact driver is also you friend.

Plus Gas every time on small stuff. If you need to soak then I'm with Deema diesel or paraffin. I use evaporust for little bits, just find it easier to chuck them in a jar.