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Yarp. I would argue that if using them for boarding up solid timber, you are just introducing more things that could go wrong. They aren’t necessary for strength in most applications, so presumably they are only there for flushing up.. but with a mallet and/a couple of clamping cauls you can...

This is exactly the kind of equation that was missing from the original fact poster guy. The numbers dont mean anything in isolation, and without calculating the volume of a garage, car etc, and how much gas displacement needs to happen, what can you possibly do with just the numbers ? Also...

But I’m afraid the numbers you googled, do not show that. You are extrapolating, and making (quite wild) assumptions. The numbers show that co is greatly reduced nowadays, since that was enforced and vehicles were designed to be cleaner. However, where have you listed what is a safe amount for...

In my experience deep cutting never really works as you expect it to. Doesn’t really matter what saw you use, hand, band, double rip table etc. I’ll qualify that by saying with kiln dried timber it doesn’t - case hardening and a moist core and all that. I believe it leads to masses of internal...

I teach furnituremaking in a college. In my first year hand skills cohort, I have a massive strata of students, including those with physical Disabilities, those with special educational needs, mental health issues, really bright young people who attained top grades for their GCSEs. My role is...

Standard mr Hidrofugo is the best I’ve used. Just machines properly, doesn’t ever seem to fluff up like others. If spraying still soaks up loads of paint on machined edges, but very possible to achieve a glass like finish with extensive denibbing and coats.

As a wooodworking college teacher, I value face to face education, in a workshop. I’m not suggesting you sign up for a full time course, but perhaps you can find a short course that offers what you are looking for. Lots of small business furnituremakers offer courses, for example intro to hand...

Forgot to mention, if I was doing the first method I would likely offer up the leg for fit and scribe the shoulder off the circular centre piece too 😇 Would help ensure a good marking out to begin with

Either coping saw then chisels to scribe it in, which will be pretty difficult in this instance to achieve great results, (or bandsaw which would probably be fine if you trust yourself and do some relief cuts first) or I would probably prefer to offer it up to the mating piece, scribe it on with...

when I was doing my apprenticeship I bought a few saw files, a saw set, and got a little setup together to sharpen hand saws. You might also want to buy or make one of those funny screwdrivers for the handle screws. Split driver ? I learnt how to do it, and will honestly say it’s a pain in the...

Yep, bench joinery and cabinetmaking jobs in the uk are in the main very poorly paid for the amount of skill and experience required. I took my car to ford for a small fault yesterday, £150 per hour “labour” Not being a foolish chap I know labour has to cover lots of overheads, building rent...

If (and it’s a fairly big if, lots of big door factories would use for example a veneer pressed ply panel for a fake floating panel effect or even a thicker “constructional veneer” sandwich which is at least thick enough to allow for any machining ) it is boarded up then it becomes a “floating...

I find a bandsaw to be up to the job for tenon cheeks only when a few criteria are met, firstly that it’s big enough for the job in hand (little bench top jobs aren’t really up to it in my experience) Then that it is fully tuned up, and then that the blade is a very sharp wide low tip blade. I...

I would consider confirmat screws and glue only. You need the appropriate confirmat drill bit, and ideally when drilling you ought to clamp the pieces together or at least push against a stop. They are easy and strong, and also enable you to put together and take apart several times easily if...

Yes bare faced, wedged through tenons on the inside of the legs, into a breadboard.. would also be suitable grain direction then to not split the breadboard.. again I’m not saying I would bother with it, but I would argue it’s the optimum way to do it and would be a fun challenge if you haven’t...

There are literally thousands upon thousands of examples of old breadboard end tables. I’m just responding to the original question which even references sliding dovetails, so the obvious answer for an elegant joinery solution would be breadboards. I also said it’s a lot of extra work and...

If it were me I would be too worried about the depicted movement on the square mitred one earier in the thread. Rustic re it becoming not flush or flat on the top is one thing, but it will all crack apart and fall to pieces in my opinion, which is much more than rustic. Particularly exacerbated...

If you really want to go belt and braces, and use it as an excercise (maybe practice for larger projects like a dining table etc) The best, joinery based solution in my opinion would be breadboard ends. These could have the legs tenoned into them so they are fixed, then the boarded up top could...

I want one, but lots of stories online of the base plates on these cracking in half 😄 not sure if this model or a previous one though ..

I think this is the best you can do. Caveat yourself out the arse, so they understand any discovered pitfalls aren’t your problem to resolve. Discuss and try to explain calmly the work involved in the job required, and that your methods to resolve those problems are based on hard won experience...