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If it was up to me, yeah I'd keep the single glazing. Good point about refurb vs full rebuild. They're absolutely covered in layers of plastic paint and the thought of trying to strip them mortifies me. It likely sensible for the upper sashes and inner box and surround though and 'refurbing'...

I'll bear that stuff in mind if I chicken out of going the linseed route

(googles tricoya)... Ah yes the sash grooves, makes sense now. I've been watching some videos of sashes being made and one of the methods involved having wider mortices that are then wedged. This seems like it might be a more noob friendly method - strong but less accuracy needed?

This forum is great! Thanks for all the advice so far. I’ll ask the glass supplier about the heritage stuff. Thx. Any opinion on traditional linseed paint? I’d watched some YT videos by Peter Ward about it. Like the idea if what he says is true.

Is it structurally better for a sash frame to do that? Thinking that the glass panel is adding a lot of rigidity anyway.

Question: can I make mortices with my plunge router, making the tenon narrower to clear the rounded ends of the mortice?

Look similar density to the ones from my house c1913. I cut one up for firewood (it has some rot), but wish I hadn't now! Still have a few 3 foot pieces left one of which I put through the thicknesser to test it and the surface was nice.

From what I've read about it linseed paint is easier to maintain. Just re-oil once it goes matte. I'm sick of plastic paint that cracks and flakes.

OK, sounds like Accoya is the way to go.

I can see a mortiser would be handy. Was hoping I could cut the tenons on the saw and the mortice by hand (I do like working with hand tools, but might be different when having to make 8 or more mortices them per window). I would like to use seals but would like them as hidden as possible...

Thanks, this is great info. Understood re woodex, I was wondering about the laminations. I'd want to avoid plain softwood precisely for the reasons you give, I have some old pitch pine rafters from the loft conversion and the ring density is huge (and they are pungent with resin). Its...

I recently replaced a rotted box sash sill in my house using hand tools. It went well so I've decided, perhaps naively, to go further as there are a lot of them requiring new sills and sashes. The wife wants new double glazing all round but keep the traditional look, everything is original...

Finally heard back from Axminster support. They are sending me a new rip fence, no question asked. Top service! =D>

Looks like the strips are in the same location as mine... I'm wondering if the knock its received was actually enough to bend the sled slightly then. Anyway we'll see what Ax say.

Axminster AC216TS

Fantastic service! I've got a ticket open with them, hopefully resolved soon.

Yes the fence on the dewalt is very nice. Glad to hear yours is flat :D

Good to know, will do. Out of curiosity does your’s have one or two plastic strips on the clamp side of the sled?

By carriage I mean the sled with the clamp handle that rides on the rail. Had a look this morning and I think its solvable. On mine there is no plastic glide on the one edge of the sled (red circle). Was is missed off? Who knows, but thats the cause of both the wobble and the binding when...

Thanks for the waxing tip, sounds sensible. I tried pulling the sled towards me but it still moves when clamping. I just saw another thread where a chap has a similar complaint. On mine the four screws to adjust the 0 offer very little if any extra correction and as he points out no angle...