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Same as me, but started in 1963. Only time i have been asked to show my certificates was when attending an interview to do a teachers training course.

I have a stand alone thicknesser, and they are perfect for this machine. However i still use the wood straight edge drag method for the surface planer.

It is easy to sort. the top rail has to be planed as a bevel which runs out along the rail. The same as fitting rising butts on an internal door.

I still have, and use the a B&D router from the 70s. Needs new beariings that are still available. Also a Wolf Saffire orbital sander used daily.

The way i was trained in the 60s. Still use the rod method today, why? because it works.

The biggest problem with untrained people using ras is , the wrong blade is fitted. I have been using them for years in a professional shop and it has always had a negative rake blade fitted, this removes the snatch. Used properly it is a very versatile piece of kit. No one should use one...

Does anyone have one? I have picked a rusty one from a barn, cleaned it up and intend to use it. However, i don't seem to be able to lock the fence in the vertical or tilted position. I don't know if something is missing or i just don't know how to do it. I have used many Dominion machines...

I am sure it will be Meranti, fitted loads on the 70s. They will be quite light unlike Sapele which is much heavier. We used to call it pink Balsa.

I use sweet tins, the ones you all get at Christmas. Plastic and fairly air tight,

After working in many joinery shops for 55 years, the bigger bench saws always had the blades at full height. always guarded, the dimension saws were the only ones that had blades adjusted to suit the job in hand.

We had a Wolf belt sander in the 60s just like the one shown. Ours was slower than the modern ones.

Wonderful thing to do.

You are right, they are both engineers who run their own company and have no interest in woodworking at all. I expect that they would all be on E Bay before i was cold.

Two of us made a lectern for school in 1961 when we were 13yrs . We both left school and became apprentice joiners when we left school. I have spent the rest of my life in joinery shops and lecturing at the local technical college part time. Still do woodwork as therapy now, so never stopped...

I need the name of your therapist, been retired for years but still buy tools from Chesterfield market most weeks. My kids tell me they are all going in a skip when i am gone.

As an apprentice in the 60s, I spent hours chopping plugs for fixing skirtings and door casings.

I have used air and electric for years in joinery works. As you say the only downside I feel is that air tools are cold to use for any length of time.

It is locked by the on off switch i think, either pulled out or pushed in. 30 years since i used one though.

I have made hundreds of windows exactly the same as the photos, always worked for me.

I was always taught that a rule of thumb for oak is 1" per year, 4" square would require 2 years to dry properly.