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Playing with my broadband. ...and the rubber sealed bearings still going strong after 4 years since I got rid of the standard metal shielded bearings.

Can't confirm that personally as mine have not yet failed. Shielded (as supplied by Record) - 3 months Rubber sealed - 2.5 years and still clear.

There is a fix if you can find sealed versions - e.g. on ebay http://www.jarviser.co.uk/jarviser/tools5.html

Who woke me up with an enchanted notification? My opinion on ballbearing guides after a couple of years - Ruddy noisy, especially when you get softwood resin making their surfaces lumpy. The sealed bearings are much better than the ones supplied, but brass or coolblock rubbing guides are far...

Oh alright then, it's quite a nice improvement on the no. 4 of its day, in having the adjustable mouth. There must have been a reason they didn't sell too well, especially as a Marples plane. That was before Record took them over surely. Many of those "patent" designs had some flaw that...

Oh yes I forgot that one.

There's a Record 2506s currently in eBay. Planecraft book shows one in use to open up a door shut. You would need to buy a pair of the LN or Stanley ones.

I presume the £103 price tag is purely down to the "rarity" of this plane, and nothing to do with its condition, design or intrinsic value which I would put at about £8 tops. Then people pay £100 for stainless steel toast racks from the right designer. Daft I call it.

Oh point taken, and I have tried all sorts of methods of getting the perfect square edge - shooting boards, router jigs, bolt-on side plates. In the end scribing lines both sides and planing down to the line with the plane meant for the job gives the satisfaction of getting to a good edge in...

The method of putting your fingers under the sole as a fence is surely for those who have a cambered blade, using the plane's position side to side to tune up the angle minutely. With a flat blade it's a bit pointless. I mean they put a handle there to hold onto didn't they? It's also a good...

That blade marking is pre 1960 and they take a nice edge. Need to do a lot of work on the plane and cap iron to fit a thicker blade properly. I would stick with the old one.

That's true. Though if they have morse tapers they will have been machine made pretty accurately anyway. And I expect banging out a joint in a door stile in redwood was not too precise a job. Nearest 1/32nd and plenty of glue and wedges!

I use the Recdord 2506 for tweaking grooves for sliding lids, but you must have the fence to go with it, else it cuts deeper and deeper. A fence from an 078 can be fettled to fit fairly well. Main problem is cutting your hand when you forget there's another blade looking right up at you.

I was wondering how you would work the mortice from both sides, but on closer inspection it looks like there is a side handle just above the Morse taper chuck which I presume rotates the entire quill through 180 degrees. I didn't have time to sharpen up a chisel and try it as SWMBO was already...

I think there may be a gap on the left hand side for quite a while!

Thought you might be interested in this old mortiser. I guess it's a Hand Tool as you just have to hang on the lever to cut the mortises. Saw it in the Friday Flea Market in Hitchin last week. From a demolished yard belonging to a builder/undertaker of the old brigade. The chisels are U-section...

Thanks for the mensh Darren. Glad you were able to use my ideas. I am still reading the forum, but spending most of my online time on BT home hub forum these days!

No Paul, flattered!

Nice picture. :wink: I find these a big advantage because they are adjustable, but you do need to use a longer stroke to get them cutting. http://www.jarviser.co.uk/jarviser/tools4a.html

I suppose six months is a bit late to reply Alf, but I missed this thread first time round - too busy reading my own article probably. I only found the thread by Googling myself (they can't touch you for it nowadays.) Anyway, thanks for the comment, and as was said much more verbosely at the...