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I'm probably teaching egg sucking, but here's what I do. Beeswax and genuine turps. 2 to 1 mix. (White spirit will do, but it's a bit watery, and I wouldn't use quite so much) Melt the wax in a clean ex-food can. (I use the flat Tuna tins). Check the depth of the wax, then add twice the...

Well Sam I have a slight problem too. I have a Festool 1/2" router and a Bosch 1/4 inch router. (The small one handed model.) As I see it both of these routers are metric in fact, and I have yet to discover if they really will accept 1/2" and 1/4" shanks, especially as Axy stock a special set...

Ah! OK. Just that I had a lump of maple lying about; it was going to be a wooden jack; another a round 'tuit, I never got to. There's ample timber to make one board. I would make one myself, as the one I have is split. 'Cos the last time I used it, I dropped it on my toe! My slippers don't have...

By twin-slot do you mean 'Spur' Shelving? I am using that at the moment, and I have had loads of timber stored on it. I think it depends a lot on the strength of the fixing and what it is fixed to. In my case it's screwed to match-board cladding, with the screws driven into the studding. If I...

Craig. Are you making just one board; or a run?

Happy days! Incidentally, one of Mr Wyatt's other pieces for learning M&T was a pine 'meat-safe'. Just a six-sided box-frame 'glazed' all round with zinc gauze. With the door included, that was 20 mortice and tenon joints! Needless to say, the stock had to be prepped by hand-plane. No PAR from...

Ace, I made one at school in the fifties. They were one of Vic Wyatt's standard pieces for learning to cut M&T joints. They were hinged with webbing wrapped around the uprights, and they could be opened either way, in various configurations, in front of a heat source. In Brum, we called them...

Make the furniture out of cedar. No finish required, if you want the furniture to weather to a nice silver grey. Like moonlight on a Pine-Moth's wings! Maybe some teak or linseed oil every 12 months, if you want the red cedar to stay red. It will cost, but you'll need to make it just the once...

Before the days of the galvanised wire rat-trap airer, my Missus bought a beech clothes airer from Woolies. It warped quite a lot over time, but it never collapsed, or trapped fingers and it worked right until the end, one bonfire night, after we bought a tumble drier! 8)

Like Gaffa tape? :lol:

Except my personal pride and integrity! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: (hammer) Cheers Phil, What is BB weld please?

Reach for the WD40, but oil or grease afterwards, as WD40 can cause light rusting if it's left on metals for too long.

Tim, I think I solved the reason the plane was painted green. I seem to recall a chap where I used to work in the 60's, who painted his planes white, just abaft the handle, so he knew his plane, if it 'walked'! So maybe someone chose green for the same reason! I have had a closer look at this...

1 spider = Minus 20 woodworm beetles! (Wild guess, but you get the picture!)

Will do, when I get into the shop tomorrow. But I doubt if via P4D.co.uk it would cost more than a tenner. Way less than it's worth when it's been fettled. It's a good old 'un. The sole probably needs truing, the tote needs attention, as it's loose and won't tighten right home. Probably needs...

Crikey Tim! I have a 5 and half, that needs restoring and it's way better than that. You can have it for a donation to your fave charity. (It's a Record, but some clown painted it green. Hoi, where's me red nose? :lol: :lol: :lol: PS. Genuine offer BTW.

Oh I dunno Custard. I always found it quite easy to produce undulating curved surfaces, and 'sheer', when I was trying for plane and straight! :mrgreen:

Get hold of some cheapo plywood, and practice sawing some shelves. Once you have cut a few down a 6 foot length, you'll be on the way to being accurate with a sharp handsaw. A hard-point saw would help you a lot. :wink:

I thought about an old Letraset burnisher too. But the one I had was just like a dip-pen handle, with a small beaded metal tip . I think the consensus of a burnisher for gilding is the nearest thing. But what do I know? :D

I do have an old Black & Decker electric stapler, and tacker, but I can't get any nails for it. There isn't much power either, and staples will just about go into a softwood laminated panel, I use for watercolour painting. So I doubt it would manage tacking through MDF or ply! :(