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I searched for a HOWTO for strengthening plywood e.g. adding an edge brace, without success on UKWorkshop. I want to brace the long edge of a piece of 1/2" (12.3mm) birch B/BB plywood to prevent it twisting or bowing (in a workbench). My first thought was to add a brace e.g. 3/4" x 1 1/4" to...

You can't cut against a reference edge that's not straight and expect the result edge to be straight without first "correcting" it, however good the table saw. Have you assumed the edge of the plywood e.g. the uncut edge is absolutely straight before your first cut, it might not be? Or, have...

If all else fails, and you cut the mortice first, you can often mark a second line and have "have another go" and allow for a "fat" tenon to match. The short sides of the mortice aren't so important to get right.

I just finished a book by Marc Spagnuolu, it's called "Essential Joinery" but it's only about joints. There are many ways to do the same thing (or so it seems). One point he made is that the mortice and tenon get their strength from the fit of the joint and the glue between the sides of the...

I wouldn't assume that it's all "solid" wood e.g. the doors look like they rely on being a veneered blackboard or plywood for their "flatness". Otherwise (not here) they might be made with a carcase with inset panels to keep their flatness over time. You could probably check this by looking for...

I would say the two better table saws of this type are the Dewalt DW745 and the Bosch GTS 10 XC. If you like the Bosch then get it. I have the Dewalt DW745 and have no complaints. The fence is very rigid and the adjustment for 0 (90) and 45 is generous e.g. -2 to +47 degrees. Here is a one year...

The model is RSBG8 8" Bench Grinder with 40 mm White Stone.

Chisels are £40 for the set. The grinder/jigs are £55 (complete).

*** Chisels and woodturning tools *** SOLD

I had the same version from the previous Hobby range and I was interested in the "improvements" made in this and other Craft models. You assume that improvements will be made, otherwise why change anything? One Chinese factory to another perhaps? The fragile looking frame and ceramic thrust...

First class result! Of course, Oscar Pipson had the "advantage" of a Techno CNC Flatbed Router to make his prototype, whereas your prototype also has the DNA look of multi-axis CNC machining just with a "human" touch added. He has the advantage of subtle studio modelling lighting (and some) to...

It's a start but you want to try to join a woodturning club too. They have demo evenings and you will get help along the way (for free) and not just at the start of your "journey". Don't forget the Store only wants to sell you new equipment but if you buy a lathe S/H then the price you pay is...

An interesting drive centre (which I don't have). I can use your scrap and hot melt glue idea - thanks. Do you think it matters that the hub has face grain across it (like a bowl)? I could switch to a true "spindle" for the hub so that the spoke "tenons" are into side "mortices" in the hub...

The wheel is for a spinning wheel.

Thanks - I will drill it on the pillar drill first. Then put it between centres ("dead" in the spindle, "live" in the tailstock) so that I can turn the basic shape and a tenon at each end.

Axminster have bearing upgrade kits in the range £40-£70 and reviewers say they are not difficult to fit, but not as simple as unscrew and replace. At least one of the kits is from the previous range of Hobby bandsaws. Their target market has to be other manufacturers e.g. Record Power because...

I want to drill a dead straight 10mm concentric hole in a spindle about 100mm deep without it wandering off e.g. by not following the grain and not staying true. The spindle is the hub for a wheel so needs to limit any later wobble e.g. it shouldn’t prove the hole hasn’t stayed true. Instinct...

Here’s a link to a pen turning mandrel - this one requires a spindle with MT2. https://www.yandles.co.uk/planet-pm2-un ... -2mt/p4785 I have the “blue” Planet kit, so it has a collet type mandrel. Because of a mix up, I received the mandrel (as shown). Later it was replaced with the “correct”...

Thanks - their designs were about simplicity e.g. shaker style doors or shaker construction techniques, (but also I didn't realise) using bright colours to stain e.g. red, blue, yellow or green etc. something I definitely don't want. This article especially the 2nd page shows how blotchiness...

I have a project with cherry. I want to even out the colour because on the front there is a consistent colour with interesting markings etc. but on the back I have a mixture of “normal” and “lighter” e.g. some sapwood (perhaps with hindsight too much) showing. I want to bring the lighter wood...