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Thanks for the links Ivan, Lots of good info there.

Like Philly I bought the £50 B&Q HVLP kit (after reading his review). So far I have sprayed water-soluble paints, MDF primer, undercoat and topcoat. The results have been ok but there is quite a bit of technique to master. Getting the air/paint mix right, the consistency of the paint, the speed...

Good work Byron. I got a little Stanley #271 as part of a job-lot of tools from an old retired woodwork teacher about 18 months ago and at the time I thought, "I'll never use that...I have a powered router". And there I was last night needing to flatten the bottom of a shallow groove...how will...

Sorry Col, still none the wiser I couldn't find a tool emoticon. I think I'll wait for your review.

I use a cheap high speed grinder and it works just fine. What ever tool-rest you use, keep your fingers on the blade just behind the edge you are working and when you start to feel the heat stop grinding and cool the blade. Your fingers will burn long before the blade overheats. Grinding isn't...

My table top is two layers of 18 mm birch ply, edged with solid timber and laminated on both sides with "Formica". The router mounting plate is 10 mm phenolic sheet set into the top. You need to make a template of suitable size for your mounting plate, that will let rou rout the outline of the...

I use Woodrat plungebars on my router table. It dosen't give ultra fine adjustment but coupled with a little horseshoe-shaped Trend depth guage it gives fast and accurate depth setting (one-handed) for about £35. I also seem to remember someone, on this forum, posting a home-made router lift...

Welcome to the forum. I have the Veritas tool rest and think it is great. I can't see where the problem is likely to be with it being made out of aluminium. The rest stands separate from the grinder, not attached in any way and it is all anodised so that where the adjustable parts are connected...

Definitely ones for the collectors but since there are no trees the saws won't get much use anyway. :lol:

I think the spam trap will stop you posting links and images as a new member. A moderator will help you out with that. Welcome to the forum.

In my post above I mentioned Norm Abram fixing things with "glue and brads" but the main use I've seen him make of pocket screws is face frames. They don't need a lot of structural strength and the pocket screws hold everything in place until it is attached to the cabinet front. I would say...

I have the Trend T-Tech (B&Q) router in my table. I fitted a set of Woodrat plunge bars to make depth setting a lot easier (cost about £30). You are right about the limited cutter diameter though. I managed to trash the plastic dust shield on mine with a fairly standard size rebate cutter when I...

"Glue and pin" sounds a lot like "secure with glue and some brads" :norm:

I think I have the equivalent of dyslexia in my hands...they're a' thumbs :lol:

The tool rest on the Record Power 8" grinder looks pretty much like the rests that come with most cheap grinders...next to useless. The Axminster and Veritas tool rests would fit the bill.

DO NOT under any circumstances drink methanol or denatured alcohol. As Chris says this stuff will cause irreversible blindness...no laughing matter.

The ones I got from Axminster also had a fairly sticky grease all over them which, as you say is probably a rust inhibitor. It is easily cleaned off with white spirit. A wipe over with an oily rag (3-in-1) prevents rust problems in the future.

I also have a set of engineering squares from Axminster. Mine range in size from 100 mm to 250 mm and the prices are from £6 - £25. They are square by the tests given in the previous posts and seem very robust, being all steel.

Looking at the earlier posts in this thread, the purple colour doesn't seem to be a problem with shellac (Tony's post). Isopropanol is less volatile than ethanol, so not sure how it would work for what you want.

Denatured alcohol is essentially methylated spirits; 90% ethanol with wood naptha (mostly methanol with some acetone, pyridine and other chemicals). In the UK I think it is usual to add a dye like methyl violet which gives the common purple "meths". The main reason for the additives is, I think...