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Jason, the idea of using a chop saw in a dark room gives me the horrors. I have a vision of me ending up looking like Kenney Everett's DIY guy Reg Prescott...if you remember that.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I notice you put an embarassed emoticon after your question...'coz it's a bit late to ask for opinions after you've bougth 'em. I haven't used the Marples Record chisels but the real question is; what are you going to do about it if forum members slate them? You say...

From the info on the Ax website, only the 12 tpi saw is a rip. The others, presumably, are crosscut (unless there is another flavour) and will therefore be slower when making rip cuts. Looks like you need another tool :lol:

The engineer's squares I bought from Axminster are stamped with a British Standard No. and the degree of accuracy that demands. I've no idea whether they actually perform to that standard or not but they appear to be "square" by the regular test of draw a line and flip the square over to check...

I couldn't get the picture to load in either Firefox or IE6. I don't know why this happens sometimes...file size? I'm also a bit far away to come and collect a mortiser :cry:

I seem to remember a fairly recent post about improving a mortiser by adding an engineering cross vice that would hold the workpiece and allow it to be moved precisely on both x and y axis. edit: found the thread... https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... light=vice

I can't help with the Festool extractor, but I do have a Triton Dust Collector. I'm not sure what you mean about additional cables though. The Dust Collector isn't powered. You just plug your vac hose into the centre port on the lid and connect your appliance to one of the two inlets at the...

For height adjustment I've got a set of Woodrat plunge bars. These allow me to raise the bit one handed, leaving the other free measuring the height, locking the plunge mechanism etc.

Biscuits would make aligning the pieces easy. The commercial stuff I've seen uses finger type glue joints for end grain to end grain joints.

Ronseal Diamond hard floor varnish is water-based and much less prone to yellowing than solvent-based finishes. In fact water-based polys often have a slight blueish tinge to them.

Looks great Pekka and very satisfying, I'm sure. Very "green" too, in re-cycling old timbers.

I got drywall screen in my local B&Q warehouse. It comes in 120 and 220 grit versions...can't remember the brand name though.

I think that the German origins of the F'tool warrants the term "Gloatmeister".

Considering that the frame is already made any advice might be a bit academic. Mike's idea of using a key or spline is certainly certainly one that can be applied after the frame is constructed and, if a contrasting wood is used, it can be made into a design feature. I would probably use a...

I've seen joining plates on the Bessey web site that do just what you have done but I've never seen them listed by any of the main Bessey dealers here. Any way, your solution must have been miles cheaper and it did the job very nicely by the look of that table.

To show your text in a hyperlink you need to put "the text you want to show"

Hi Harry, Welcome to the forum. You could also have a look at the Jet and Axminster 10" SCMS. The Axminster one is currently on offer with stand for less than £140. So many of these tools are now made in the same factories in China and "badge engineered" it is often difficult to tell one brand...

Tony, I hope you are not tempting fate by saying you've had it for 3 years and ...3 year warranty :D .

Hi James and welcome. I would agree with Dave, you need a workshop first before you start the renovations, if only as a sanctuary. Good luck with the renovations.

I seem to remember a previous thread, long, long ago that asked why he stained everything "Donkey brown" which I thought was a good description. In fairness to Norm though, he often uses antique pieces to base his designs on and they are usually stained dark brown.