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I have managed to ding my worktop jig...working outside, light going, tired, in a rush to finish...you know the story. The jig is a solid laminate one, bought off Ebay. As such it wasn't expensive at about £40 but I grudge buying another for cutting one more joint. I was wondering about...

I also have a Triton Workcentre and as WiZeR says it can be set up to do very accurate and repeatable work. I also converts into a crosscut saw with a 450 mm capacity and in that mode it can also do compound mitres. It is also fairly portable (especially with the wheel kit added). The Workcentre...

I think that for small diameter bits like these you should have the speed at maximum for the cleanest cut. Tearout at the front might be down to the type of wood (B&Q type "whitewood " can be difficult/impossible to machine cleanly). I haven't seen the pocket hole cutter so can't comment on its...

For a carcass that is 600 mm deep and 2280 tall the diagonal measurement from bottom front to top back will be 2358 mm, so when you try to stand it upright after assembly it will wedge between floor and ceiling. You will either have to assemble it standing upright (possible but tricky on your...

Nice job Paul, and a very good set of pictures. I think your post should go into the "How To" section.

I'm sure you'll be delighted with the Triton, a lot of people reckon they are 'The' router for table use and £181 is a pretty good price. My local B&Q still wants £250 for the TRB001 and Triton Tools are asking £184.90.

Martin, if you already have a grinder what about one of these jigs? I've not tried the Axminster one but at under a tenner it might be worth a go.

I've made a few of these for my kitchen (mine are painted) and, as Rob says a little glue at the corners of the panel is all that is needed. I have tried glueing the panel all the way round but found that it makes adjusting for square etc much more difficult at glue-up time.

Another question is, do you need the cross-cut capacity of a SCMS or would a better quality CMS, like the Makita LS1040fit the bill. It would certainly be more accurate and the cuts more reproducible than a similarly priced SCMS.

I got a worktop jigthrough Ebay last year. It was obviously "seconds" as it had a big score running right across one side but all the important bits were fine, all the locating pegs were there etc.

Martin, I'd still take it back. It is their own brand, so the can hardly deny you got it from them, can they. You probably won't get a cash refund without a reciept but you might get a credit towards something better...worth a try anyway.

The remote control unit I have came in a pack of three or four from B&Q. The sockets are rated to work with loads of up to 3kW, so fine for the workshop vac on its own but I wouldn't want to switch the saw (2 kW Triton) and the vac on the same switch just in case the start-up surge is too much.

Nice one Barry, it looks like a good tool. I've never used a deaw knife, so I'll be interested to see how you get on with it. I'm currently following the other thread on re-handling chisels using Alf's method of shaping the blank into an octagonal cross-section, with a block plane. What sort of...

No problem accessing it with Firefox 2.0.0.6. Thanks for yet another good tip Alf.

Thanks Alf, I have the plastic handle off my old Stanley already so I'll try and have a go this evening (it's that or watch the Big Brother evictions).

I also used this method when I fitted an Axminster quick release vice to my bench, and I don't remember where I got it from either (probably through this forum). I used a length of 4 x 2 clamped in the jaws as a prop to hold the vice at the correct height, then it was easy to slide the vice into...

Good idea Richard, I might give that a go. I've also had thoughts of trying to clamp the blank vertically at the edge of the drill press table and swinging the table to the side to bring the blank under the drill. Not sure how secure it would be though. And yes, I am planning to do one of Alf's...

I'd like to have a go at re-handling an old chisel but my first attempts at drilling a blank to take the chisel tang didn't go too well. Ideally i'd like to do it on my drill press but it is a small bench top model and it doesn't have enough clearance. Free hand with a power drill (battery) I...

I have the Trend AirAce and have had no problems with glasses steaming up. I also have the add-on visor and that is great but it seems to attract the very fine dust, which sticks to the visor by static and is difficult to clean...any suggestions?

That looks very good Andy. I guess that the hardest part is making sure that relatively thin and narrow guide batten is perfectly straight. The saw boards I've made all use 75 - 100 mm wide "factory edge" from a plywood sheet because there is very little lateral bending.