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As a DIYer, rather than a pro I have made my kitchen cabinet doors from MDF. Frame and panel doors...18 mm thick frames 90 mm wide with a 6 mm panel. I used loose tenon construction for the doors (dead easy with a router table) and a simple round over profile around the edges. I sealed the cut...

I use a very similar set up to Derek Cohen. I have a very cheap high speed grinder (6") and a Veritas tool rest. The Tormek Angle master jig makes getting repeatable angles very quick and easy.

Rob Cosman has a series of woodworking DVDs, one of which is called "Rough to Ready", I think. Seeing it done is often better than reading about it. I haven't seen that particular one but I have frequently heard it recommended in response to just your question.

Tony, I raised the point about the lack of serrations on the bars of the set I got. I'm not sure how important the serrations are though, because pipe clamps have a similar mechanism with a hardned plate that "digs into" the pipe. My comparison for the serrations was a set of Bessey K-bodies but...

My experience of looking for a 60 1/2 on Ebay was that they tend to go for silly money, almost the price of a brand new Veritas block plane, which would probably be a better plane anyway.

Rutlands have arranged to pick up the faulty clamps tomorrow and will refund the cost in full, so well done Rutlands for good customer service (if not a good product). As a replacement I have gone for the Uni-clamp deal at D&M. I was pleasently surprised to find, when I placed my order, that I...

Hi Selly, I'm sure there will be better qualified members than me along to offer advice but I thought I'd pitch in with a couple of thoughts about the woodie jointer. The blades on many of these were tapered, with the iron being a lot thicker at the business end. I don't know if a modern iron...

My set of clamps arrived yesterday, and unfortunately they don't work either :cry: The serrations on the bar are not deep enough (missing altogether in some places) to provide grip. Despite the bars being almost smooth in places the heads are stiff and difficult to move so they are going back...

If I'm breaking down 8' x 4' sheet material with my hand-held circular saw and saw board I often find it easier to make 4' cross-cuts rather than 8' rip cuts (the 4' sawboard is easier to handle for a start).

I also use Cutlist Plus, silver version I think (cheapest paid for version anyway). I cut up 5 sheets of MFC for kitchen cabinets over the weekend and it is a real time and material saver. I'm sure it has paid for itself on this one project alone, certainly for an amateur it is good for...

Ingenius, as usual Niki, are you a bridge player by any chance? WiZeR, I have a couple of Triton Multistands and I find them very useful for all sorts of things, like supporting my 8' x 4' grid for cutting sheet material (the whole grid tilts to enable easy loading). What don't you like about them?

Thanks for the review LN, I'll have to wait until I get home to see if mine have been delivered. It sounds like I made a good choice in ordering these though.

That's strange, because I've just had an automated email saying that my order will be dispatched today by Parcelforce 24.

I've also taken the plunge and ordered a set of the 600 mm clamps. I'll post my opinion of them after I've had a chance to try them out. I have some kitchen cabinets to build over the next couple of weeks, so I will have an opportunity to put them through their paces.

Just had the Rutlands email flyer about these parallel jaw clamps. Anyone know if the Dakota ones are any good or are they like the Axminster Bessey rip-offs? At 1/4 of the price of Besseys I'm tempted to give them a try.

Yes, that is the same guy. I followed the bandsaw build thread on the Ubeaut forum...very interesting. I think that the Phoenix might be Mk. II. The YouTube video does look like a new and interesting way of amputating a thumb though.

I never realised that was yours DW, small world, isn't it. Your sled design works really well for cross cutting and panel squaring and your recent thread about cutting mitres on the table saw got me thinking about how I might adapt it as a mitre sled as well.

The cross cut sled I made for my Triton WC2k was based on the one in this thread on the Aussie Ubeaut forum.It runs on the inner rail of the Maxi sliding table, rather than the edges of the table top and it is very accurate. I have put a long fence on my sled with a self adhesive tape measure...

Jason, I thought Titebond II was a PVA glue, (as are I and III).

The wealden web site address is http://www.wealdentool.com/.