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I have made the router table in Mick's link. The plans are also in the book "Woodworking with the router" by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack. I used birch ply for my table and table top as that was what the design called for. When I built mine a few years ago it cost me about £100. It uses an 8'x4'...

Jason's loose tenon method is much better than trying to machine tenons in MDF. Even the MR stuff is quite "fluffy in the core. I've used it successfully with standard MDF for kitchen cabinet doors and big drawer fronts...no warping and so far very durable.

Have a look for "Woodworking with the router" by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack. The book has plans for "regular" and horizontal tables. I have built the regular router table and used it a lot. it is a great design and I'm sure the horizontal table would be just as good. The book is also a wealth...

PVA glues are fine with MDF. I've made frame and panel doors and drawer fronts (18 mm frame, 6 mm panels, all MDF) and put together with just waterproof PVA...lasted for years with no problems (so far...touch wood, or should that be MDF).

Mike, thats a very neat jig. Just today I was looking at the Trend Ncompass, a commercial version of this very jig; cost, almost £50. I'll certainly be building one like yours for myself. Was it regular kitchen chopping board you used for the base?

The factory baseplate is usually screwed to the router and comes off easily. You can stick that to your mounting plate with double sided tape and simply drill through the screw holes. If you don't want to run a drill through the screw holes, use the factory base plate as a pattern and make...

As Brian says the Wealden slot cutter is your best bet. A biscuit cutter will take a 4 mm slice...the slotter, at the bottom of the list in Brian's link to Wealden, only has a 1.5 mm "kerf".

I've used biscuits with satisfactory results. Dowels would also work ok but harder to align without a decent doweling jig.

I'd buy the Trend Routabout jig, do the job and if I couldn't see any future work for it, I'd flog it on Ebay. Used kit often goes for near new prices. just had a look on the 'bay and found this for £20 plus p&p...not too dear to make a nice neat job of your access ports.

If you want to use a router for mortises in 4x or 6x stock you really will need a 1/2" router. You can get 1/2" by 50 mm or even 75 mm long. a DW625 or Trend T10/11 would fit the bill and your price range.

I too have the XX in my table mounted T11...great piece of kit. it came with a 1/4" collet adaptor and I already had an 8 mm one, so all my router bits can fit on the router table. Some don't like adaptors but for the occasional use I make of them, they have never given me a single problem.

Chippy, sorry, I didn't read your post properly, I see what you mean about flipping the board to get the slot centred. It does sound though, that Keith hasn't done this sort of work before and a cutter sized to the panel material would make the process a little more straightforward.

If you are getting a router bit specially for the job, I'd go for a 6.4 mm slot cutter like this from Wealden (you also need an arbour). That way you can use readily available 1/4" (6 mm) MDF stock for your panels. If you later want to use the router for biscuit jointing you can get a 4 mm...

Hi Aled, I don't have that combo but I do have a T11. I'm pretty sure it came with a paper template for setting out the mounting holes. The T11 and the DW625 are basically identical, they certainly have the same mounting hole pattern. The T11 has the big advantage of above the table adjustment...

Hi Rob, I was originally looking for a Fobco Star but was put off by the prices they go for and the fact that most are 3ph. The Meddings I have successfully bid for doesn't have a motor at all and I have a single phase motor that I hope will fit without too much bodging, so I'll try that before...

Thanks guys, I've signed up so hopefully I'll get a quote or two to consider.

That gives me the "Willies" just thinking about it.

Hi guys, I've just won a Meddings bench drill on Ebay. My problem is that the drill is in Lincolnshire and I'm in Scotland so I need to have it collected. The seller says it weighs 51 kg without motor (it is a bit of a project but I got it for £16 and I have a 1/3 hp induction motor lying in the...

I use a 12 mm nut driver chucked in an old hand brace.

If you are painting, I'd go with Mark and use MDF. I would also make the frame with loose tenons (the same 6 mm MDF as the panels). The only router bit you need is a 1/4" straight bit to cut the grooves in the rails and stiles, including the ends of the rails. Simples.