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Makes sense. I get on fine with the hand crank, surprisingly effective and very controllable, but I'm generally only making small fiddly stuff, if doing straighter runs then a motor and being able to feed/guide with two hands would be very helpful.

I use a similar vintage Singer, a hand cranked model, for sewing heavy canvas, leathers and suede, for bushcrafty / outdoors type stuff. Works very well indeed, they are very robust and capable machines. You need to use an appropriate type of needle for heavier materials but easily available...

Of course you wouldn't drill into the concrete with an hss jobber bit used for the steel, change to a masonry bit for that :roll: Your lathe must be a lot smaller and lighter than mine ! What do you perceive the problem to be exactly with drilling through as described ?

It's not rocket science, keep it simple and accurate and drill straight through the stand at a diameter to take the anchor and bolt, drop it into the hole and if necessary add a larger washer !

I enlarged the holes in the stand so that I could then drill straight through the stand into the concrete floor with the lathe in situ, then popped in the anchor bolts, added a large washer to make up for the enlarged hole, and bolted down. I forget if the record stand would allow for that...

I've used anchor type fixings on my large wivamac lathe on a couple of occasions now, the most recent being just a few weeks ago. As long as you choose the appropriate sized fixings that will drop through the lathe foot/pedestal into the drilled hole from above, then it is very easy indeed. No...

One very happy woodturner here today after the postie dropped off this :D A full 16" diameter in 3mm perspex (mixing measurements I know, always seem to do that !), and all marked out to make positioning of grain and features a doddle. Many, many thanks to Paul of Clearview Design aka...

Thought I was back in the school playground there for a moment, it's not your ball to take away and the rest of us would quite like to keep playing thank you very much :roll: :lol:

Not sure what else is available Mark, but formica isn't that thick, only around a mil I would guess without checking.

I use an alaskan mill, very satisfying to produce good usable timber from what would normally be left to rot away or get chunked up for firewood ! You will lose around 2 to 4" of usable bar length on your chainsaw due to the way the mills attach, and will need a powerful saw to make much...

Just a marketing gimmick in my view, nothing that you can't do just as easily with fine abrasives and wax or oil :)

Looks amazing with the new paint job Mark :) The one here locally was ali, and yes, loads of dents and looked like it had been repaired with baked bean cans or similar !

How big is this one please ?

That's the one Mike ! I probably got mine from Craft Supplies in the UK many moons ago.

Hi Mark, there was an airstream on the local village garage forecourt here a few months ago, don't suppose it's that one you picked up ? Looked a bit knocked about mind, patched/bodged/repaired, but maybe a good project ! On the formica, I had to source some a few years back to do a large...

Not familiar with the weather compensating feature mentioned a couple of times above, any more info' please from anyone knowledgeable on such things ?

That's the kind of thing ! Thanks. Ideally would be bigger, and round, if any more out there anywhere ?

I seem to have mislaid my large plastic circular centre finder I used for bowl blanks, can't seem to find any online, anyone know where they might be available, save me having to make one as I hate cutting thin plastic sheet ?!! It was a large diameter circle of clear plastic with a centre hole...

Nice work :)

Like the other guys, I've had a combined 4" belt and 6" disc sander for years, the disc was too small for anything useful and I never really used it. The belt arrangement was adjustable between the horizontal and vertical so it's left permanently vertical and gets a lot of use.