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  1. woodbloke

    Hornbeam or hickory plank(s) needed

    That's what I'd go for...find a hickory pick-axe handle and whittle it down - Rob
  2. woodbloke

    '**** Sapiens Minor' pests, littering my garden.

    ...try McCartney at the 'O' opening ceremony :-& - Rob
  3. woodbloke

    Hand Stitched Rasps

    They can, apparently. I spoke to Matt about this and he mentioned that you immerse them in Ferrric Chloride(?..could be the wrong stuff :duno: ) and this is supposed to put the edge back on the teeth. I haven't a clue how this works...maybe someone more rasp savvy can elucidate? - Rob
  4. woodbloke

    even if the economy is fe.....

    It would be if the anchor line above the water was twice as long - Rob
  5. woodbloke

    '**** Sapiens Minor' pests, littering my garden.

    Even cheaper would be broken glass...I remember when I was a callow youf that no-one went over a wall topped with the stuff. Illegal now though, more's the pity :( - Rob
  6. woodbloke

    DMT Dia-Sharp Extra Extra Coarse

    The long departed Alf :( (where is she btw) was a huge fan of the hand cranked grinder - Rob
  7. woodbloke

    Don't put Norris in the shed!

    I have an A1 panel plane with stained beech woodwork...mine's never been left out in a cold, dark, damp and unfriendly shed though, but it's never used now as I much prefer the LV BU family of planes - Rob
  8. woodbloke

    Single-Bevel Sharpening on DMT DuoSharps

    Lots of first class stuff here from Derek of Oz, as is to be expected. I use Japanese chisels exclusively which I hone with single bevel, as Toshio Odate recommends and the reason is that there's more of the soft iron back (with a flat bevel) behind the hard steel compared to if it's hollow...
  9. woodbloke

    Do you 'sign' your work? If so how?

    Hadn't thought of that...good shout Rod :mrgreen: (hammer) - Rob
  10. woodbloke

    Do you 'sign' your work? If so how?

    I found that you need to clean all the debris and crud out of nooks and crannies with something like a pin...the Chalco stamps then seem to work better on long grain, but there's still an element of fibre 'crushing.' It's also quite important to get the right amount of 'thump' with decent sized...
  11. woodbloke

    do you sand after you scrape?

    Same here, the guy in the clip gets the same outcome, but the scraper is held at 90deg vertically against a wooden block...horses for dooberies (hammer) - Rob
  12. woodbloke

    Do you 'sign' your work? If so how?

    As requested - Rob
  13. woodbloke

    Can you identify this heavy, dense wood?

    ...and if it is wenge, watch out for the splinters!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: - Rob
  14. woodbloke

    do you sand after you scrape?

    Yep :lol: - Rob
  15. woodbloke

    do you sand after you scrape?

    Sharpening a card scraper is just about the easiest thing in woodworking to do :? ...do exactly what the bloke in that clip did. It's a very, very straight forward process - Rob
  16. woodbloke

    Nice Antique Handcrafted Block Plane

    Cr*ap it may be, but interesting none the less. As soon as I saw it I was reminded of the very first planes developed by the Romans around two millenia ago...a block of wood with a chisel held securely to take a shaving! What comes around, goes around :wink: - Rob
  17. woodbloke

    Do you 'sign' your work? If so how?

    I recently had stamp made at Chalco: ...they work best on end grain though - Rob
  18. woodbloke

    Hand Stitched Rasps

    At Pete Sefton's Bash earlier last month, I asked Matt to bring along a few of his new Continental rasps and I compared these to my original Chiwanese rasps that I'd bought from him about three years ago. The new ones were light years ahead...still hand stitched and made in France though, but...
  19. woodbloke

    Hand Stitched Rasps

    ...but a set of six Steve, is around £180 which means that each is around £30 (if me maffs is correct) and that includes a leather wallet (the total cost is less if you were to order them singly) The Auriou rasps are even more exotic and more spendy than the Logier, or so I understand - Rob
  20. woodbloke

    primary bevel for chisels quesry

    +1, with a couple of exceptions. I exclusively use Japanese chisels which have a single bevel of 30deg for those that are going to get thumped with a geno hammer and 25deg single bevel for those that are kept solely for hand paring only...dovetail and long handled paring chisels - Rob
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