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John, I have one of these from The Daylight Company. The magnifier is I recall 5" diameter. The price reflects the quality IMHO. cheers, ike

I too have a Progrip clamp. It has 3 preset clamping pressures (haven't yet concluded that it's a 'must have' feature) but it does what it says on the tin. cheers, Ike

I don't think there's any way to DIY laminate over a bull nose profile. I think the only option is to fix on separate profile moulding (glue with biscuits or a ply tongue strip). Then you'll need a biscuit jointer (£40 upwards) and a decent number of edge clamps (£3-50 ea). I occasionally...

I switched from waterstones for the same reason - too much faff. I liked the idea of continuous diamond plates. Couldn't stretch to the DMC/Trend offerings so went for the Ezelaps - Fine and Superfine (8" x 3"). They come in tough hide pouches so I can chuck them in the travelling toolbag...

I think 100mm fibreglass wool is really good value for money and gives a excellent level of insulation for a shed.

A radiant heater you could argue, is more 'efficient' in the sense that the heat is only transferred to the objects in range including you. It won't directly heat the air. Although a uniform warm environment is still more comfortable, it requires a lot more energy input. But the radiant...

No, you're right to choose Festool. As a pro, it's a good investment. I sort of crossover from the regular day job to paying woodwork jobs - proper paying customers - but still part time, so I personally can't reconcile the cost-benefit equation to buy for example, Festool. More power to...

Yup.

If you want to make your own, you have to budget for a good quality, zero clearance saw with a quality blade (triple chip? ). The melamine chips so easily. Then there's all that edging tape to contend with. I agree as said, for MFC - buy the carcases ready machined. Put the...

No mate, can't do it in one hit!. I found about a 10mm bite was pushing it hard enough. If I can hit a quality joint with 4 passes, i'm happy. Any more to me is a PITA. With a new cutter though, that would be comfortable but not for long on the chipboard - better on hardwood. Edit: Maybe...

Hi Nick, I've recently fitted my own walnut worktops. I'd read all the horror stories on the Screwfix forum et al on the pitfalls of wood worktops . Walnut is one of the more stable hardwoods compared say to beech which is bastard stuff for movement in comparison. Also there is walnut and...

You must be a right plank! Knock the wall out then ask if its loadbearing - then go sit under the unsupported concrete slab with a cuppa. Oh, and when it collapses I hope it doensn't smack the regulator clean off your gas bottle - oh dear! :roll:

Watts is watts. 1400W is enough - but only just. A 1400W router is going to work to its limit for a 40mm worktop (assuming you don't want to p about with 5mm cuts that is). I know, cos I've done several kitchens with a Hitachi TR12 (1350W) and a Bosch 1400W. S'okay for the odd DIY kitchen job...

Hi dan, I found a Trend T5 underpowered with hardwoods on my Leigh (D4). IIn my experience, the Leigh jig demands something more powerful but not too big and heavy. There are a smallish number of mid-powered (1100-1400W range) routers out there. I settled on this. There might be a better...

Bosch T101B are good general purpose blades but still prone to splintering on upcut, however, Bosch 'Progressor' blades are amazingly good (but cost a lot more). I've been using them recently on MFC and 40mm walnut with minimal chipping, knife through butter etc. Also found the Progressor blade...

Gill makes a very valid point about frame construction over slab construction. My first kitchen I built as frame construction, made the doors (solid mahogany) and the top was plywood with Formica sheet on top. There was however. no other option i.e. factory made units. Still proud of that...

Hey, you need to get out more! :lol:

Steve wrote: I'm not overly keen on the aesthetics (apart from the walnut/rosewood veneers) , but I do thinks it's a good practical design. John wrote: Yes I agree. It seems more of a design exercise. It's ambiguous to me whether this is a regular for sale, production item or a 'gallery'...

I'm sure its easy with years of practice!. I took the bull by the horns and had a go plastering my kitchen a short while ago. Various surfaces to deal with:- skimming old plaster with Thistle Multifinish, bare brick with Thistle Bonding + Multifinish, plasterboard (ceiling) with board...

Amazing! , Clever! - actually it looks a piece of crap to me - an experiment with a water jet cutter, yes, but no way is it a good practical design. Functionally, how long is it going to last before it lurches and creaks every time you sit on it, or worse it just collapses in bits - not long I...