I think Andy King's reviewing the Charnwood saw in the next issue of Good Woodworking (one month from now). I appreciate that you'd probably rather not have to wait that long so, hopefully, Woodbloke might buy one fairly soon...??? :D
When I built mine last year, I gave myself a 500mm wide top plus about 170mm for the tool well. If I had the space, I would like to have made this at least 600mm, which would allow better support for small tables and the like, without the need to place a sheet of MDF on your bench.
If you're...
Hi guys,
At college, I've almost finished an arm chair made from English ash with an English walnut seat. Here's a photo from several weeks ago, with most of the components dry-fitted (no finish), without the arms:
You should be able to see there's a lot of curved work involved and, where a...
A photo or some form of illustration would definitely help. You're probably right with the two-thirds ruling - unless, perhaps, your rails are 100mm wide or something?!? :wink: Generally speaking, you would also aim to make your tenon thickness equal to one-third of the rail thickness; depending...
I don't doubt that you could make one yourself from scraps of ply and hardwood. Whether or not you should do that though...? :duno:
Essentially, the 'ring' needs to have a diameter greater than the the diameter of your largest cutter block. Therefore, giving you that main point of contact and...
That oak should look interesting when you come to put a finish on - what are you thinking of using, by the way? With the light and dark striping, it almost has the characteristics of tiger oak... :)
If you're happy with them then, I'd leave them 5ft long and glue them up like that (at least you only need 3ft long sash cramps that way as well! :)). As long as the top will be secured to the frame well with either wooden turnbuttons or shrinkage plates (to allow for the cross-grain expansion)...
Well, it looks like you've done very well indeed! Hopefully, this thread will helps others as well, when it comes to sorting out second-hand machinery. Adding that extra weight in to the base unit is a great idea.
You'll need a nice box for that huge roll of tissues, now...! :D :wink:
Great find on the vacuum. I've got one of the modern Nilfisk-Alto vacuums and I like it a lot.
I like Byron's idea of lipping the edges of the top. Which way will the grain run on the top? Along the length (5ft) or across the width (30in)? Whichever way, you'll need to allow for expansion across the width of these boards. Depending on the length of your boards, you may find it more...
Some people like this feature on drawer fronts. You only to look at some of the furniture in places like John Lewis to see other examples (although, they're probably built around an MDF of chipboard core; thereby eliminating any movement issues).
Yes, a router with a wide cutter should be quicker (and safer!! :roll:). That way, you wouldn't lose any time re-setting the machine to make the final shoulder cut, as you have done on your saw. The router would do it all in on. :)
You could even do it with a hand-held router, using the side fence.
Titebond do an Extend wood glue though, this will only give you about 15-20 minutes, depending on conditions in the workshop. That's still double what you'd expect from your average PVA - surely, it's enough time to bash some dovetails together? :D
There's also Titebond III, which appears to...
I can't remember were (possibly not here?) but, I have seen plans and WIPs for people building their own drum sanders. It's often the people who make guitars and ukuleles. They appear to work well enough but I've never seen a home-made version that includes feed rollers - you always have to feed...
If you're after a single phase machine then, you may want to look out for a 9in Multico planer. They appear on eBay every so often. I'd be surprised if most of the Wadkin, Robinson, etc. wasn't all three phase.