Search results

Personally, unless you have an AirPress kit or some other conveinent method for veneering your own MDF, I'd just buy a sheet of the pre-veneered stuff for this - otherwise, there's a lot that can go wrong, if you don't have a god enough set up... :? Do they have a wide belt sander? That would...

Oh, it's nothing too exciting (it's certainly not black and green!! :wink:) - it's one of Axminster's engineering pillar drills that I'm picking up, used, for a good price. It's missing the rise and fall handle of the table, which is why I need to call in to their Devon branch on the way back (I...

Another vote for the Makita LS1013. There's also an laser-line model out now (stick an 'L' on the end of that number) so, I don't know why the laser-less saw has crept back up to £500 again, in some places?! It's worth every penny and I'd still recommend you to look at other Makita saws, even...

I'm aiming to arrive late-morning on Friday, after I've been down to Plymouth to pick up my new toy :roll: and, of course, I'll have to pop in to Axminster, first on the way back up (never been before)! :wink:

A fantastic use of old furniture! =D> Did you turn all those knobs yourself as well? Your workshop's looking very smart indeed. You'll surely come to appreciate that as winter kicks in... :(

I've always felt the same way about doors, gates and anything else that's exposed to the elements. With windows though, I think the risk is 'minimalised' since any exposed end-grain on the tenons is concealed within the surrounding frame opening. Nice job so far. :)

If that's sawn then I still think that's expensive - I can buy 1in English oak for less than that! :shock: I'd expect to pay something in the early-to-mid twenties for sawn beech. Though, I appreciate that imported timbers may have increased in price, recently...? --- A note on your design -...

Welcome to the forum. :) That does sound expensive although, that is the consequence of buying PAR (planed-all-round). If you don't have the facilities to machine all the wood yourself, perhaps there is a forum member local to you who would be happy to assist? If you have a jigsaw or circular...

I've also removed the guard on my Hegner sander and it's stored elsewhere - purely because, as you have discovered, it gets in the way, even when you're using the correct side of the disc! :roll: I'm not sure whether it really plays much part in aiding dust extraction, as the anti-clockwise...

Welcome to the forum. :) A Workmate may be of some use when working with power tools but, as Chems says; they're not steady enough for planing or hand-chopping mortises, etc. Although, you may have better luck in using two workmates (one at either end, to create a "frame") with a heavier slab...

Are you working with hard or softwoods? Some merchants offer ¾in thick sawn redwood (joinery-grade pine) as standard, which doesn't appear to have been resawn from thicker stock. I've no idea if this is cheaper than buying 1½in boards but, it'll keep your bandsaw blades from getting gummed up...

Don't worry, James - Google says you can still get your 'Festool Fix' from this place!! :D :wink:

Welcome to the forum. :) Only thing I'd add is to put a bandsaw higher up your list. You should be able to get a decent 12" or 14" machine for £100-200 on eBay and, with the right selection of blades, it'll serve you well for a whole load of purposes. You're going to need one to shape the...

Very smart but, where are all the hand planes??? :shock: :wink: :D

Another vote for the WorkSharp 3000 model, here (I don't see any point in going for the 2000 model, when you get a lot more for only a 'little' extra cash). There used to be a time where I believe that, for whatever mains-powered grinder you might have in your workshop, you would always "need"...

If it's the extraction hose that's clogging up and not the area below the outlet on the machine, you could try removing the hose and looking inside the 100mm inlet of the extractor - if there's a cross-shaped grill in there, that may be to blame. The idea is that it'll stop large objects from...

I agree with Bob, when he advises you to use the widest blade your saw can take. However, while many "small" bandsaws will claim to be able to take a 5/8" blade (for example), it may not be able to tension it properly. So, you might be better off going for the next size down (½"?), which would...

Another thing I found was that the grub screws needing resetting every time I came to re-fit the outfeed table, after a thicknessing operation (I guess that's why some of you now use yours solely as thicknessers... :roll:). I never tried this but, I wonder whether it is possible to 'lock' the...

I'm not quite sure of what you mean when you say 'wavy lines' but, if you're taking very fine cuts (usually, less than 0.5mm) then you won't be removing enough material to get rid of the marks from the serrated feed roller, which could be what you are describing...? Secondly, I'd recommend that...

I thought this was a common 'fault' with most bandsaws? Most manuals and technical teams will advise you to stop the saw before making any major adjustments to the guard height anyway,as there is an increased risk of injury. That also gives you the time to safely adjust the guides. I have...