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I highly recommend Clifton plane irons for the extra thickness and excellent edge-retention qualities. But, having also use a Quangsheng block plane blade in a wooden plane I made myself last year, I'd say they are a good option if you're on a budget or, if your plane cannot take an extra thick...

MDF can be difficult to plane by hand. Even if you can work a decent edge on to your iron, the edge of a board can blunt it again in minutes! I'd favour the router method using a home-made T-square and reference it off the same edge for both end cuts on each board. One downside it the dust but...

Hi Dave, The ones I used were stock code '208' on the Isaac Lord website. This was for a top that was 38mm think and they do work well. They're dead easy to fit, too, provided you have the correct diameter router cutter and set it up with care. The only downside was that I was fixing these in...

Hi Toby, I don't think there's much wrong with the original design. However, you will need to decide on how you're going to keep the top flat. That could mean using a sheet of veneered MDF with deeper, solid timber lippings around all four edges, perhaps. If you were to fix cleats underneath...

Looks like a nice workshop where you can move around and use things with some freedom. Where do you hide your planer? I can see the thicknesser. On my router table (top is 450mm deep), I offset the plate from its central position slightly closer to the front. This was so that I could push the...

I'm with Knappers - last week, I placed a small order with them online, which included two items that were out of stock. Yet, I was still able to go through the checkout and pay for these items at the discounted price. It remains to be known when they'll be available again but, I know that not...

I noticed the same thing, around 5.30 yesterday morning. Not only was there a distinct lack of lorries but, there were barely any other road users at all (I counted four in a 25 minute/15 mile drive). Though, I put this down to the time of the year... Didn't see many at work, either - though...

Well, I can only advise you not to go for the Bosch! :-P The 10in model is regarded as more reliable (most are) but I just never got on with mine. Too much flex. Where it wasn't accurate, the inaccuracies weren't 'consistent' either. :P I used to work with a DW708 (I think it's a 12in saw...

I bought some of this from Rutlands last year (purely out of curiosity) and have used it a couple of times to do some laminating. It just seems like the rest of their glues, to me! :roll: :duno: It worked alright but, I don't see how it's any different to their 'Extend' adhesive, really -...

I haven't used one but they look to be quite solid and comments from users on here over the years have suggested that they are reliable as well. Some will see the 6in/152mm width capacity as a limitation; others may not - it depends on the work you do or, whether you can adjust your methods to...

This came up on the forum a few weeks ago but, it is believed that the man previously behind Lyndhurst is trying to get back in the game through eBay... Or, he may just be selling off some old stock - either way, click here for more. :-)

If you were to consider installing several vents in your workshop, you could install the adjustable type, which would allow you to close them off when you want to heat your space, leaving them open for fresh air circulation when you're not in there. One high and one low is said to be the best...

As an owner of the AW106PT, I think it makes sense for you to go for a 12x8in machine, given your budget. The one thing I really don't like about the 10x7in model is that the dust extraction really is pants, when planing and particularly while thicknessing. You'll still end up with piles of...

I believe that the "Duo" is in the name of both models to distinguish it from some of Metabo's competition (most notably Bosch, as both DeWalt and Mafell's sanders are virtually identical to the basic 'Duo' model). It's all about the two oscillation speeds (3mm and 6mm). 'Turbotec' is the more...

Generally speaking, I find it's much easier to keep the cut running perfectly true to the end on a larger saw with a larger diameter blade. Your saw has a 200mm blade, which probably doesn't make things any easier... I also now own a saw with an 8in blade (Elektra Beckum PK200) and find the same...

Good work again, Alan! :-) Do you use knotting on an external gate? And, if so, do you apply it before or after treating the timber? Steve - a lot of external gates and, even some external doors (garage, barn, etc.) are made in this way, with the bottom rail a good couple of inches higher than...

Good work, Alan. You look to be very busy at the moment, which is always good. :-) Look forward to seeing those bi-folding doors. ;-)

An interesting design, Mattty - thanks for sharing. Gallery looks great, too! Do you have any more photos of this? ;-)

The problem with doors (possibly) is that while one face is exposed to the elements and the seasons, the other face is pointing indoors. During the summer, I expect all internal woodwork to expand, due to increased levels of humidity, as you say. But, in the winter, once the central-heating...

I'm not sure what it is but, tanalised timber does seem to have a blunting effect on the edges of your tools and machines. Treated timber is generally "safe" to handle - provided that the wood has been given forty-eight hours to dry after coming out of the tank (legally, I don't think yards are...