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If you are interested in finding out more, Japanese woodworking tools, techniques an interests, a facebook group, are very helpful.

Theyre not very pretty and the door opens into a hayloft so the strike, which is only held on with a couple of screws could easily be opened to gain access without a key.

I have a rather old Startrite saw purchased from a school in Ardee in Co Louth in Ireland. The fence stops just after the far end of the blade? Many tablesaws I see online, I suppose mostly American, have a fence that extends the full length of the table. I'm assuming this has something to do...

The Legge 5511 is no longer made but the tooling was bought and the lock is still being made. Just a deadlock. But it will cost twice that by the time I get it in Italy.

Are the Yale mortice latches any good? Latches aren't very common in Italy and Yale is the only name I recognise on the likes of Amazon.

That has always been my thought. Most of the interior doors I have made have been in C18 buildings and have had rim locks.

I've always thought 63mm was the narrowest. I have latch and lock 63mm. I can only find one 2" mortice deadlock.

I have always built doors for older properties with substantial middle/lock rails. I have just built a half-glazed door with a narrow middle rail, 85mm, and narrow stiles, also 85mm. A 63mm mortice lock would completely remove the tenon. If I want a mortice lock what are my options? I'm...

I'm in Italy, I had exactly the same issue. My suggestion was to call them and ask if they would tell you who makes the blade stock of the blade you want, some of my Tuffsaws blades actually have the manufacturer on them. That way you can be more specific with your search.

Maybe if you ask him who manufactures the blade stock of the blades you want to buy you could search better in France?

I bought some from Germany but they were useless. I went back to ordering from Tuff and having them posted on. Very expensive exercise though.

If you choose to get a dehumidifier, make sure you get one that works at low temperatures. A standard dehumidifier, I think its workings are similar to a fridge, will struggle to remove water from cold air. MDF tends to go a bit furry when it gets damp unless it is water resistant, but I imagine...

There are still many similar wheels around where I live. Some are probably still used. I swapped mine for Japanese water stones.

I haven't watched the whole video yet but if anyone doubts you don't need fancy sharpening gear, watch the beginning of this.

same here, hacksaw

I buy mine from Amazon.jp, much cheaper

The fan needs to give 8 changes of air per hour. Calculate the volume of the room and choose the fan to suit. The fans installed in most bathrooms are too small. Better if it has a timer, better still if it has a humidity sensor but both of these will need an extra live at the fan.

I have 4 Festool blades but the other day I had to cut the top of a barn door, full of nails. A Saxton or Rennie blade in the UK costs less than what I have to pay to resharpen a 42 tooth Festool blade, 28.00 euro with postage.

I would have said thicker, but sorry to have been so imprecise. I'll try harder next time.

I have the TSC 55 KEB and wanted to buy a cheap blade for those rough cuts that don't necessarily need a perfect finish. Has any one tried a wider blade? a 165mm maybe?