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For what it's worth. I have a scheppach TS2010 which has sliding carriage and should handle panels. the sliding mitre gauge extends to 2m. I have started working with panels more recently, and after about 2 attempts, I changed to using my very cheap £20 circular saw and a simple clamp T-track...

If like me you don't want to have to keep taking your router off your table, and fixing it again, Machine Mart do a Woodstar table with router built in. It's also really easy to raise / lower as it has a wheel on the side for this, which i always found a pain with most router tables where you...

i have not seen the disk pop up at all, however as Steve says, there is certainly a "skew" adjustment on the 3000

must say i have not had any issues with that, however maybe i can't tell ;-) or perhaps cos i am doing quite small chisels in the main it's easier

yes, but square on both sides prevents wiggle and possible skewed grind. You certainly can do without if you keep a nice firm grip... (on your chisel/plane iron) I manage to get my plane iron in without removing it...

The square thing keeps it erm... square.... however i would say 3" if you took it off. that is one advantage of the 3000 is that the "fixed" angle can be set at 20-40 in increments of 5deg... this 2000 has a fixed angle. you can still do on top, and probably use / make a jig for a repeatable...

I thought the idea was that you put heel down slightly first, with the idea that you are never going to grind 3" off your chisel any time soon so you will probably never get to that part...

Thanks! Do dheagh shlàinte!

mmm, not sure i agree 100% the nylon cover has holes you can "see" the bags filter at a much smaller size, and very small airborne dust is the worst of all... I would like to know what the actual filtration levels of the bags and cover are so that I could compare more scientifically ;-) also...

could one use 18mm and the use a forstner to make the part with the knob thinner? or would that risk it not being "flat" at the point of fixing? guess it depends on whether it's supported underneath of not. my 2000 arrived today, but in UK, so will be a few months before i get hands on it...

As far as i recall from the 3000, it's just a hole, and the thumb knob holds it on, all you need is a 9" circle saw with a 12mm arbor....

Here is a place in the UK to buy abrasives by the way http://workshopheaven.com/cgi-bin/cp-ap ... Sharpening

take some MDF cut it into a circle drill a hole in the middle done :twisted:

Ah, is that another difference then, that they have plastic wheels...I did not know that.... oh well, do you some links for abrasives, as i keep hearing about using those that car body shops used, and about lots of "really cheap" sources, however i can never actually find them :(

So feswood, i actually got a mini portable oven for tempering forged knives in, and as it's in my workshop i thought i would give it a try. 100deg for 10 mins, funny smell, and i took one out and compared it to a raw one, and you could clearly see about 15-20% volume loss!! these now fit...

on the worksharp site, they sell abrasives that are "suitable for both" however that is US based. I have asked them why the ones here say WS3000 only and will post any reply. to be honest, i figured that assuming the machine lasts 20 years, for 200, the WS3000 was £10 per year, and that is...

I have a makita vac with this built in, and i attached the input to a 6 way bar, and the vacuum to a tube / blast gate system, so every tool i turn on starts the vac, and i have no pipes to connect. this may seem over the top for you, and i thought the same, however i reckon it saves me hours...

I have seen a lot of professional knife sharpeners, and had numerous discussions at meet ups, as this topic also baffled me, given there were so many options. So i found that it is an art in it's own right, and some people only sharpen and never use them! you can spend hours and hours getting...

with regards to registering off the side (just saw your edit ;-) ), i rarely use this as these joints are always hidden, so where it is doesn't really matter, as long as it's the same, so i tend to draw a line and then do by eye making one hole looser than the other. For this, i just made 3...

aha! so centre line marking your way, with the MFT makes it much easier, as you can slide the piece, however for me might be a bit tricky.. Read the supplemental manual (they should make it more obvious there is one...) and see how it's suggested there. The trick is to not think you always...