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Opinions from others may vary but I find Sapele can be an awkward bugger to work. Not so much with regards to machining or hand planing, as techniques can be employed to get good results rather, it’s whenever I have to pare with a chisel that the interlocked grain can become a real nuisance -...

Awesome stuff bob as ever. Your design, use of materials and execution really is something to behold. Quick question if I may; I note that each of the recent builds you’ve shown use inset doors and drawers. Is this the modern trend for high end built ins?

Looks great, as per your usual standards rxh!

I’ve got the 1019L but it’s packed away at the moment. Someone previously asked about the distance from wall to fence and front of the machine which I answered if you do a search. If I get the chance I’ll dig it out and measure the other bits for you tonight but no promises as things are a bit...

Looks good bob =D> Pauline will be pleased!

The tenon centred in the mortice i.e. not skewed and with equal amounts taken off of both faces. Planning to fiddle with tenon faces to position your style/rail correctly seems a sure path to insanity. I do strike all my gauge lines from a marked face or edge using dual pin mortice gauges. I...

I’ve got a 78 (which I think is a great and underrated tool by the way) but I have never considered using it for adjusting tenons. I have come to the conclusion that the most efficient way of cutting tenons is to fit them straight from the saw (obvious I suppose). The only way I can do this is...

Very early on in my woodworking I did try drilling holes to help with morticing. It didn’t help at all and actually took longer than just doing it with a chisel. I did try a trick of removing a sliver off the top of the mortice first (one of Hayward’s books I think) which was helpful at first...

Beautiful desk in that photo by the way. Please do post up pics of your version or better still a work in progress thread. I’d definitely enjoy following that.

A good Turkey stone is fairly fast, medium to fine and natural. Hard to find though. I lucked out with one at a boot fair.

They do work without the collars Andy. As you say though, using them in that way does make a mess of the bench top. I haven’t been too bothered up to now but wondered if an easy option existed to have proper collars.

I’ve got a couple of the Woden variants that are like the original Records. They work well enough but I’d like to find a source for the metal collars that sit in the bench top. Any ideas on where they might be found?

It could be a number of things to be honest but as others have said, I’d start with the blade if it were me. You are looking for one with a positive rake, I think it’s 5 or 15 degrees on mine which works a treat. Once set up correctly and with a proper table, fence and dust collection, a RAS...

Could the capillarity of the PVA be playing a part in this?

I’ve ground mine dead square and use on a shooting board. I think a #6 is a great size for that.

I can’t give any insight into how eBay or AliExpress variants might work however this is how I’ve set up my Wixey (think it’s a 550): I’m really pleased with it and would recommend it to anyone looking for accuracy and ease of use from a DRO. I particularly like the way it renders fractions...

I’d be interested in finding sheets of high pressure laminate for the same job as it happens. Doesn’t seem to be readily available in small quantities though.

I use a wixey on my Sedgwick MB. It has significantly improved the accuracy and even the usability of the machine. I’ve got the DRO calibrated so that stock coming out matches it’s reading when measured using a digital calliper. This means that I can remake parts much more quickly than before...

Out of context; how? You stated that the OP should expect to do “quite a bit of work, including flattening the sole, lapping the blade” etc. and I disagreed that’s all. I’m simply pointing out that not all (or even most I’d say) vintage Stanley planes need “quite a bit of work” in order to...

Expect to? No, I disagree. Be prepared to do a bit of work yes but expecting to do all that just because the plane is a bit old? Not really. I’d start by knocking off any loose rust and properly sharpening the iron. Set it for a light shaving with the cap iron close and if that works for you...