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The problem with urban wind turbines, especially roof mounted ones is that they don't work in squally wind. There have been many designs over the years that claim to work on roof tops and all have failed. This, as I understand it, is due to the yaw effect and constant need to change direction...

+1 for the mitre mate or mitre bond or even Screwfix No Nonsense Mitre spray. You can use the spray on any superglue

An LN 140 Skew does the same job (with the moveable fence fitted)

I've just rounded over a beech worktop with an old Dewalt 1/4 inch plunge router and it did a fantastic job using a Trend 6mm radius cutter

Sounds great but I do prefer my porridge in the morning..

and here's me thinking he had problems with his central heating...

I bought a pair of wrangler riggs carpenter Jeans from the states, they are very stiff and the stiff waist band chafs my stomach rather badly as it hangs over it somewhat. They've been washed a couple of times but show no signs of softening. The most comfortable jeans for me for daily DIY...

So digging the back is out, but I totally agree that guttering is a must. After that it's what I said earlier, I would construct a raised floor and insulate the roof. If, after this, the barn is still damp then build the inner walls using battens, studs and housewrap.

Either would be ok. I think machine wax leaves a slicker surface.

I like that a lot Andy, I would get some ACF50 and spray a little it all over, leave to dry and wipe off any excess then a couple of coats of machine wax.

especially Co-op's Venezuelan Chocolate Ice Cream

Just jumped in a bit late but my TPT125 doesn't flex either, no thump or obvious movement and it performs really well for it's cost. There can be a bit of snipe so at the moment I overcome it by thicknessing over length boards. I do have a 19mm black melamine board to rip down to make a new bed...

ok but you don't need some of the gaps you listed only between the 1st (batten/housewrap) and the stud wall. so 50mm wall to wrap, 75mm studwork, 11mm OSB3 so 136mm on each wall. Apols if I confused you, I'm trying to explain a timber frame workshop build working backwards!

interesting overview and interesting accent - is he related to Loyd Grossman then?

No, assuming you can't move the road dig 4 feet down plus 2 feet to take water below floor level, I'd make it 450mm across. Bear in mind that a 6ft trench is a potential death trap so use experts to dig this for you. Line the trench with a Geotextile sheet in a U shape with a flap lid to stop...

Wow, ok then unless you can dig a 6ft deep trench down the back of the wall and back fill with pea shingle and a DPM between the shingle and the wall you are a bit stuck. You could still go ahead with phase 1 as I laid out but be prepared for phase 2 - building the internal wall.

No not that, I'm assuming here that your damp could be fixed by the french drain and new floor. What I mean is that you could preserve the main, more attractive stone walls and use another wall or part wall for storage using internal stud work. Another point to support roof insulation is that...

In a nutshell and as phase one I would: 1. Lay a DPM and floor 2. Insulate and board the roof 3. Dig out the soil behind the wall and lay a french drain Then if you continue to have damp problems build the internal wall system I described. If you can keep the lovely stone walls that would be a...

I'd consider hiring a digger and digging out the earth and build a french drain behind the wall (basically a trench back filled with shingle). Answers to specific questions are: 1. Yes it just lays on top of the earth floor. You can staple the 300mm sides onto the back of the battens (facing the...

In which case if may be damp from the floor so you might be able to avoid the internal wall build and concentrate on joists raised on a DPM. Another solution would be to build a timber raft directly on top of the DPM.