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Thanks for the continued advice guys. I've put the saw aside while I continue with my project and have not yet phoned LN because, as I said, posting the saw internationally for any reason is a last resort. Though I do strongly agree that it seems to have been a bit of a waste of money compared...

The blade of the LN does indeed bind more and more as I cut. I'll get hold of LN tomorrow to discuss but, if I can get hold of him, I might have a very experienced local fella double check my findings before I make any decisions.

Right, I've tried again this morning and this time photographed the results. I am right handed so cuts are made on the right of the piece but I made sure to keep the same face uppermost which I've labelled top. It looks like I went off my marked line on the Axminster cut but that isn't the case...

Yesterday we had a BBQ so I used the opportunity to cross cut a piece of scrap into fuel for the fire and to check my sawing chops. I alternated between my old hard point (a short 15 tpi axcalibur brand thing) and my LN cross cut (12 ppi). Every single time I got a perpendicular cut from the...

Just got myself a pair of LN panel saws for breaking down rough boards - they arrived from the USA 2 days ago and today was the first use on some yellow pine. The rip version is pretty good and I can now rip boards without breaking a sweat quite as soon as I used to using my el' cheapo hard...

Seeing all the recommendations for Pax saws do the Flinn / Garlick / Pax company also make Axminster's Victor range of saws? The handles are identical, they have folded brass backs and the saws themselves have matching counterparts in the Flinn / Garlick / Pax range. It's a pretty safe bet that...

Aside from the educational value I have found the hand tool projects motivational. Watching Rob spend many episodes flattening and thicknessing his parts prior to getting on with joinery has made me feel OK about this aspect of my woodwork. It can sometimes be such hard work that it's easy to...

The original workmates had 2" solid beech tops. Not that mine is an original mind you but as I do all my work on the workmate and I only use hand tools I felt there would be some benefit in a thicker solid wood top. I can flatten it by planing whenever needed, I can attach a small vise level...

Well, to come back and see the sincere replies to my concerns puts a smile on my dial. Thank you. The expense and trouble has been accepted as the price of a lesson. Unfortunately the wood is still cracked so it'll eventually be cut into smaller parts tip toeing around the cracks.

In an effort to refresh the tired wooden surfaces of my workmate I went and bought myself a length of 6"x2" beech wood from a mill on the other side of the county. It was stored in a large hangar / shed at the mill and I think it might have been kiln dried on site as they have the facilities...

No troubles this side leaving tools outdoors in the Winter. My tools are certified couch potatoes and TV addicts. They are stored not more than 3 meters from the television :lol: Yes, agreed about the pure camellia oil. The stuff sold for protecting planes is cut with liquid paraffin, which...

Hah, Philly, just the man I was after. Thanks for chiming in, and so quickly too. I'm pretty certain that the camellia oil as sold to us for use on planes is not a pure camellia oil. It is blended with mineral oils too, which is why they write on the packaging not to use it in any way that...

Thanks for the tip about renaissance wax Jim. Otherwise what you describe is pretty much what I do already. I say pretty much because there may have been one or two instances of laziness where I've put the tools away without giving them a wipe of camellia oil but I'm quite shocked if those...

Hi all, Just a couple of questions about rusting planes. I seem to remember Philly confessing to the same sort of hassles, so I know the knowledge is out there. Thing is I feel it might be slightly over the top for me to take the drastic step of becoming a wooden plane maker like Philly did to...

Heck, it actually worked, one Clifton #4 on it's way to me! Thanks Dangermouse!

:lol: That comment had me in stitches. Excellent work, Rob. Simon

That does seem a useful combo, LuptonM. I can certainly see occassions where a sanding belt and a grinder would be the ideal pairing but due to the nature of how I work at present I must pass on all dry grinders I'm afraid. At least until one day I get a place that has a workshop.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Pvt_Ryan - certainly a well used stone on that hand grinder you just won! That stone must be all of 5cm in diameter. I actually had my mind set on a hand grinder like that some time back when the galoot juices were in full flow so I know that they can be difficult to...

When I signed off this forum earlier this morning I thought that was the end of the story on grinders but it now seems a whole new world has opened up in my absence. Thank you to all who have put forward their thoughts and suggestions. Rob, looking over at the Norton blue grindstones at Classic...

Pvt_Ryan, I take it the grinder from b&q is a dry grinder? Never seen a wet one there. Simon