Search results

Im not sure you need all the paperwork for simply changing the fascia. They are doing nothing to the stack etc. I assume that the are basically starting with an open fire, and ending with an open fire? With regard to fixing - simply drilling the surround where it will be covered by trim, and...

you either need to turn the machine around, or walk round it. its a stupid design - id be ashamed if it were my work - just a foolish concept another bad thing about the machine is the guides on the sides of the thicknesser table - theyre not high enough to actually guide work, but just high...

I have one of those axminsters. I like it, but its not without irritation (see my recent posts). You cant really thickness the whole 250mm either, due to the design being a little poorly thought out, and the machine needs some space around it, due to the tables tilting the wrong way, but i...

After posting, i went and had another look at the machine - the strips are not continious. So, if youre working on a wide part, it only has to move a touch, and then the feed roller is pushing the job onto the end of the "apron" when it re-starts on the outfeed side. Only one of two things can...

Sorry to the chap who is selling one here at the moment - the machine is fine, i just find a few bits irritating on it, the current one being... The thicknesser table has, what the parts diagram refers to as, an apron around it. Have a look at this picture - If you bring it up large, you...

I have not done it, but there is no reason for it not to work. There is the other method too - running a router over the work, with a depth jig. I did this on an old oak beam here and it really worked surprisingly well, considering i just used some dexian angle in a vague approximation.

Are you needing to pierce at that thickness, or can you come in from the side? Pierce will be a lot less than cut for any given machine. I have an r-tech machine which is a lot nicer than my friends clarke of a similar on paper spec, but still, i do not find that the cut depth is as good as...

re: blade length - Ive been chatting to people on another forum, who use 93 1/2 blades (the photo above is not mine) but this pdf on the axminster site says 98" - https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/wp-co ... 00x500.pdf So i that is why i shortlisted 95" as it was in the middle of these two...

I have one of these - Also sold as - etc. Regardless... I want a blade for it for straight cross cuts on thin (1/2 and below) hardwood. I do not need to cut tight, if any, curves. I would like a good finish to the cut, but do not want it to burn its way though! I found this on ebay...

Id like to bump this thread. Its not been posted on for years and years, and im wondering if the uk is now awash with sellers who, somehow, avoid all my google search terms!

I had not looked at the power situation, but i had noticed that some were 1ph, and some 3ph. My direct drive compressor is 3hp, and eats 13a fuses merrily as soon as the cable gets too long. Ive got it hard wired to some 2.5mm which is a push to get into a normal 13a plug. When i re-do the...

I have had a brief look through Ebay's completed listings. The Wadkin AGS 10 sells, sometimes, for surprisingly little, and, on the right day, would be well within my budget, and space allowance. The Startrite looks like a more capable saw, but is also more expensive and larger. This isnt a...

I was given a t-shirt for christmas.... It was disappointingly thin. It was from one of those "print on demand, heat press" places, who, im sure have purchased the cheapest possible material they could lay their hands on. I ordered some shirts for silk screening a year or two ago, and...

I have one of the Dewalt DW1251 saws. On paper it does everything, but, in reality, i just dont get the results i want out of it. Maybe i would if i did all sorts of checks, every time i used it, but, really, i just want something that works repeatedly. So, im thinking of swapping it out for...

Well, this one is a stanley iron on a stanley plane... So if that does not match, i guess who knows with the rest? Im wondering if the frog and / or parts of the mechanism may not be "stock" on my plane, hence the oddity - ill take another look tomorrow.

Distance from front of cap iron to slot - old iron - 95.2mm new iron - 99.2mm

Thank you - All the points you raise are fine. At present, ive put the old cap iron on the new blade, and the blade will back off fine. Ill get the calipers out and take some measurement of the old iron and the new, and see what's what. They must be different. If theyre the same, ill be...

...in case its not obvious, which im kind of sure it must be, i purchased the blade, cap iron set, and have the cap iron set about as close to the end of the blade (1mm or so) as seems sensible?

Following up this one - I took the sellers partial refund, and purchased a new blade from axminster over the christmas break. Im not free of issues though! I can not work out how to back off the new blade enough. The knob is at full travel, and i cant see that moving the frog would make any...

I think the folding tables are not a great idea anyhow. Do combined units like the wadkin bao/s also have folding tables? I was eyeing them up, but the axminster was cheap and localish. And, importantly, at the moment, easily movable. But maybe I'll swap it at some point. Anyhow, this...