Search results

Worn thumnbs, that's the first thing I though of too. Seen it a few times with 3 phase, it's amazing the wood is cut and not sent 3 foot into the air!

Thanks for the comment Gasman, glad you enjoyed the videos. When I started to make the first plane I also started a thread about it on another forum which I would periodically update as the build progressed. Towards the end of that build one poster recommended this forum to me as I'd not come...

I've made a start on the blade. It's tedious work, endless hours of flattening and sanding. I decided to have a go at a snecked blade, I was unsure if bespoke makers mill down a thick piece of steel to form the sneck in one piece of steel or if it is two pieces joined together. I had no way of...

You could try to cut away the damaged part and glue a new piece of wood in its place. Cut away the red area and carefully fit and glue a new bit in its place. Looks like the wood is either oak or beech. Other than that you can buy these planes for pennies at a car boot but I'm assuming this...

Just found this which states they are 0.055" Quick google says thats 1.397mm Not sure if thats true to the original Stanley blade though. Axminster tools also sell replacement blades https://www.axminster.co.uk/blade-for-a ... ane-506548 .

I have a few card scrapers with thicknesses ranging from around 0.5 to 1mm I prefer the thinner ones as they are easier to bend and seem to me to give a cleaner cut. My No 80 seems to have a much thicker blade, I've not measured it but I'd say its at least 1.6 - 2mm (I'll measure it Monday)...

Got the wedge finished today just have to sand it up. I managed to work a cupids bow into the bottom of it too which I think complements the bow in the bridge nicely. Wenge dust leaves a really nasty taste in my mouth so mask on when sanding. The more I look at it the more I like wenge, I wasn't...

They look great! nice work. Good idea using the mounting bracket to secure it to the wall. Others I've seen have legs at the back to support it but yours looks cleaner. I keep getting nagged to make something similar and I'll get round to it one day.

I sharpened my 18tpi saw with a new Nicholson extra slim saw file and it was just about okay, I think a double extra slim would have been better. I wasn't overly impressed with the visual quality of the Nicholson compared to an old stubs saw file I have that's starting to wear but I've also...

The plane is coming along, both infills are made and I'm just working on the wedge now. Got to wait for the tool steel to arrive then I can start making the blade. wpwwTmMCm4M

I've started making the wooden infills for the plane. I've gone with Wenge as I had a spare piece from another job, its very hard and dense so should make nice infills. It's really tough on tools mind, blunts saws and chisels in no time.

As said these aren't ideal gluing temperatures for PVA. I've also had failures around these temperatures so would not risk it personally. What is the project? if it's possibly to move it somewhere warmer for 24 hrs prior to gluing up this will be better. Applying PVA to stone cold timber...

Thanks guys, really appreciate your contributions to the thread. I'm enjoying reading about the history of these planes and found an article about them here Amazing how far back they date. I've taken some short video clips of the progress so far and started to put them into a video. It's...

In the warmer months I only wear thick leather gloves when handling rough sawn timber or heavy sheet material, the added grip and protection is a real benefit. In the colder months I wear thin gloves daily. I have raynaud's phenomenon which gets extremely painful if I let my hands get to cold...

Funnily enough I had a go at sharpening mine a couple of days ago. Paul's video is a good reference to start from and I will echo what others have said about taking a very light pass and trying your best to keep them consistent. The teeth will have a good profile already so half to one full...

Thanks for your insight guys it's interesting reading. I had always thought mitre planes where used as described, mostly for planing end grain. It makes sense they where intended for very fine work with their small mouth opening. I had also thought that they were a small plane around the size...

Whoops bad wording on my part again, I've got to stop replying late at night (hammer) Phenomenon indeed I've never seen it either .

Thanks for the input chaps. Agree with both of you, I've got my wires crossed and worded this totally wrong. Blade protrusion sets depth of cut and in turn shaving thickness, which should be the same regardless of mouth width but am i right in saying a tighter mouth gives a cleaner cut and aids...

Finally the sole dovetails are nearly done. I could at last do a test fit of the sole onto the body. Getting the two pieces of the sole to align and make the dovetails a tight fit has been a pain staking task. It was a case of fine adjustments to each dovetail with a file then test fitting after...

I've started work on the sole and its tough going! I'm using O1 tool steel this time round. These are the initial cuts that start to form the mouth. There was a lot of filing involved after. Here you can see the sole is made from two pieces of steel with the mouth cut into the left hand...