Search results

https://www.workshopheaven.com/chromium ... paste.html

Indeed. Jacob is an excellent example. :lol: (PS - I wonder if Steliz has restored his saws yet? The way this thread has dragged on, he's probably had time to restore them AND wear them out!)

If you need narrow suite hinges, Isaac Lord stock a range of sizes made by Worcester Parsons; https://www.isaaclord.co.uk/narrow-solid-brass-hinge I've used them in the past. They're nicely made (solid drawn), but if you want a polished finish, you'll need to do a bit of fettling.

Thank goodness we all now know. :roll:

Fair enough. Why do straight-back saws need them, but skew-back saws don't? Jacob will know. Jacob knows everything.

If the nib has a definite purpose, why don't all hand, panel and rip saw have nibs?

I've had a look in 'British Saws and Saw Makers' for some info on Smithson. It seems that no such manufacturer ever existed, indeed nobody of that name has been found in the Sheffield metal trades. However, the name was used by Taylor Brothers for one of their second quality lines, and may have...

Hmmm ….. so Henry Disston and Sons say one thing, and Jacob says another. I'll let you make your own minds up, folks.

There is documentary evidence (Henry Disston and Sons) that the nib was there as decoration, to visually balance the curly and decorative handles of the 19th century. I don't think anybody has come up with anything else from a saw maker as to why it's there, though literature and interwebs are...

There are some seriously odd threads among those! Some may be Whitworth or BSF, and the American-made ones pre-date Unified threads by quite a lot, so may be American National or Sellers, but there are also a few that don't conform to any thread standard I'm aware of (and I know a fair few!)...

Saw 1 - cheap and basic model, the 'screws' are a form of split rivet installed by forcing them together. It may be worth repair if you can knock the wave out of the blade by holding it up and whacking the edge of the spine with a mallet at each end. If not, bin it. Saw 2 - Ah - that's much...

Files are made from very similar tool steels to those used for edge tools, just not tempered back as much as most edge tools. They'll cut hard steels, but the harder the workpiece, the shorter the life of the file. About the hardest steels routinely filed are handsaws and chainsaw chains. If...

I'm a wee bit puzzled. If you need a bevelled-edged chisel, could you not just buy a bevelled-edged chisel? After all, they're freely available in great variety; simple steels, fancy steels, fat lands, thin lands, bench, butt, paring, new or secondhand. Can't really see why good money has to...

Workshop Heaven supply this; https://www.workshopheaven.com/gunmetal ... lever.html Thomas Flinn supply a Clifton replacement, but as Cliftons use a thicker taper pin in the frog casting for the yoke to pivot on, you'd need to bush it for a Stanley or Record, which is a metalwork lathe job...

Hmm. I can sharpen freehand with no problem at all, but I can't ride a bike more than a few feet without falling off. Am I odd?* * Yeah - I know that's an open goal, but what the heck! I'll just not log in for a few days....

You can't remember what it's like not having dexterity. Lucky you. Just spare a thought for those who's talents lie in other directions. We need all sorts to make a world, and some of the sorts who contribute to the good of the world using their minds rather than their hands choose to relax by...

Indeed - two sorts of people; those who, given the tools, will finish the job; and those who, given the job, will finish the tools....

I think manual dexterity is actually quite a complicated thing. A good proportion of my childhood and young adolescence was spent making things. Models, mostly, especially model railways. Some of the models were frankly not up to much, but some were quite presentable, and (though I maybe...

One very fine craftsman (sadly no longer with us) was Jim Kingshott, author of several excellent books on woodworking, including 'Sharpening: The Complete Guide'. In the preamble to the chapter 'The Sharpening Process' he describes his first introduction to sharpening as a young apprentice. His...

If you do plan to use a centre drill as a countersink, bear in mind that the cone angle is 60 degrees, not the near 90 degrees more normal in woodwork for screw heads and the like. Their 'proper' job is to sink the sink the holes into which a metalworking lathe centre seats, when turning...