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I have to say my journey is of simmilar pattern. Cut throat shaving, sharepening and honing, collecting sharpening stones, wantink to make boxes for them, starting woodworking, trying to renovate old tools for the job and already thinking how to make new ones, making den in the garden...

I had a look and I have to confess that I am already spending most of my free time ( woodworking is a hooby) on restoring good quality old tools and not much is left for woodworking itself. For that reason I was looking for saw doctor to do few of my saws for me that I can spend time woodworking...

I have looked at Paul Sellers video but it does not show straightening and tensioning pannel saws. I am still not lucky. Beford Saws send the handsaws to be done somewhere else and they do not provide straightening and tensioning of hand saws. Perhaps I will have to look further affield. Anu...

I will give them ring on Monday as from their web is not clear if they do straightening as well as sharpening.

I am looking for saw doctor in Bedfordshire and arround area able not just to sharpen some of my handsaw but mainly to straighten them. Reason why I do not want to have a go myself is to get some bench mark for comparison before I will practice on the others as well as to take care of my more...

I agree with you and believe that is what I wrote as for me soaking and submerging is if not the same is very near to each other.

Is that what you expressing your personal opinion or manufacturers advice for particular batch of stones?

Sorry you lost me. Where did I write that " Norton stones aren't to be submerged"? If I did I do appologise to everybody who got confused by my information.

I know people who work with their waterstones every day for major part of their day and they do. But also they lap them every day.

Late Henk Boss in his bood describes simillar sharpening utensils much closer to UK shores in continental Europe. As medium why it has to be neturaly occuring? What is a problem with quarried material? As about grit size you can start with heat eroded gritstone and finish with different oxides...

Depends which one you have as they have different types of bonding used. I believe Norton and King are submerged however Naniwa is just sprinkle about ten minutes before use and just top up during sharpening.

For more round shapes you can use hard felt wheel impregnate it with glue wait for it to harden, shape it as required and impregnate it with with yor grinding medium. I am not sure how it would work with sharp corners. However if you want that for mechanical power then I would worry about...

Thank you guys for pointing me out towards possible solutions.

Hi guys. I am in process of hand restoring old Spear and Jackson Alexandria hand saw. My issue is that after I have sanded and honed off most of the rust and pitting the saw is still not straight. There is a significant bend to one side. Not a kink just continual bend. Any advice how to sort it...

Try to explain it to nowadays red tape slave- sorry health and safety officer. Closest they are to sharp edge is the paper which they know from the finely adjusted screen of their computer.

You should come to one of the THATS meetings. You can get your answers from him direct.