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A saw blade is a "consumable" in my view & I would have no hesitation in replacing it! A typical saw blade of that size is ~0.020" (approx 0.5mm). You can go a bit thicker, say 25 thou (which I've found to be typical on the impulse-hardened hardware store saws), but thicker plate & small...

:unsure: Been doing the same thing for the last couple of years, ever since I helped an old friend move house - he is/was a pathological hoarder & the experience was scarring! I vowed & declared I was going to reduce my "stuph" to what would easily fit in the back of a small ute. Lots of...

Yairs, a difficult challenge to respond to! I'm a sucker for tools that I find aesthetically pleasing, and there is a very long tradition for blinged tools, so I'm far from alone there! Sentimental attachment is also a big factor, but function is paramount. Ideally, you might have tools that...

My suggestion would be neither! We all tend to make recommendations according to our own experiences & the type of work we do, so let me add that caveat before proceeding! :) IMO, you'll be better served by a # 4 Bailey type if you simply want a smoothing plane. A good used one will be far...

Unfortunately, John, thinking things through thoroughly ahead of time has never been my long suit...... I'm not against powered tools, they most certainly have their place, and I have a few of the tailed & tail-less variety that my ageing body is grateful for at times. I'm (slowly) learning...

By co-incidence, I spent much of yesterday trimming 8 doors after new carpet was laid in our house. I thought I'd do it the easy way & borrowed a (very inexpensive) power planer. I haven't used one of these things for more than 30 years & found it very awkward to hold it on it's side against...

Agreed - it's better to start with a straight tooth-line, not only for marking out from the template but it makes it easier to keep a constant rake angle when forming the teeth if you are new to saw sharpening. "Breasted" saws have a convex tooth line & it takes a bit of experience &...

This is my first attempt: It holds pretty well (after I planed a slight concavity in the jaw faces). It's a juggle with wooden jaws to cut out the ends enough to accommodate handles without loosing stiffness. With a couple of my very small saws I just take the handles off, it's easier. The...

The toe screw is also 7/32" 20tpi the same as the stud thread (& woops, I had a brain-fade above & typed "7/16 ", which would be slightly over-sized! :oops:)... Cheers,

If it's a U.S. made plane or an older English Stanley (before ~1980) it's 7/16" 20 tpi (often referred to as 12-20). Not a size you can buy at the local hardware store, unfortunately..... Cheers,

Adam, I also very much doubt this - can you produce any evidence? Both the old cabinetmakers I worked with (trained in the 1920s) were "tails-first" dovetailers. Could you explain the advantages of "pins first"? I have tried both ways, out of curiosity, and of course it's do-able, but for me...

More gets written on dovetails than any other topic in woodworking, but you can boil it down to one simple word - "practice". I don't think it matters a hoot whether you use push or pull saws, as long as you can use the thing to cut accurately. Start with one or the other & stick with it 'til...

Actually, it can, especially when you are a beginner. Lots of texts (& no less a person than Bill Carter) will tell you to set the workpiece so the cut line is vertical. One tends to forget how much practice it takes to saw perfectly straight & to a line & anything that helps initially is good...

The blade really only needs to sit firmly against the frog where the lever cap bears on the toe & upper ends. If the blade/cap-iron assembly is a little concave (looking from the frog side) it might introduce a slight tendency to chatter, but I think it would have to be a pretty marked curve...

Could one of our knowledgeable members please id this trademark? It's something familiar to me from way, way back, but I just cannot place it: From other pics in the listing, it's the Bailey recipe done in pressed steel (even the frog is a stamping!). Any further info would be appreciated...

:D Well, he illustrates the point alright...... Cheers, Ian

Not low on teeth, G.S., it comes from the fact that in old animals (including human animals ), the incisor (front) teeth tend to collapse outward reminiscent of the "tooth" part of a router blade... It's far less common thing to see in people now thanks to better diet, better oral hygiene &...

That would've been entirely out of character, Tom.... :D The pic I included was actually #2. My first attempt was just to see how it went. I used a somewhat clumsy two-screw clamp (Derek used a hardware store hook for his). This is #1 : When this one worked so well, I decided to make the...

A router plane doesn't really need any gizmos, imo, the "old woman's tooth" (didn't old men have distorted teeth a coupleof centuries ago??) style does a perfectly adequate job & you can make one for yourself with a base or bases to suit your own needs. Years & years ago I picked up a 71 at a...

David, my own experience does not agree with that. Hard-point saws in general may not be quite as hard as some old "conventional" saws were, but they are certainly not tempered significantly softer than the average saw made in the first half of last century. You cannot have them much different...