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;) Got me! Orright, so I DO use disposable razors. My old pot used his cut-throat up til his 80s, but switched to Gilletes for his last few years. Don't blame him I'm mid-seventies but wouldn't trust myself wielding a cut-throat..... Anyway, thanks for the 'support', Nigel, glad to see I'm...

From Stanley's own blurb on the RB 10: Features & Benefits Cutting depth adjustment and distortion lever Die-cast plate rectified on 3 sides Fully adjustable for depth of cut, cutter alignment Lacquered finish Multi-use - Smoothing plane and workbench rebate plane Supplied...

Why? Wear of the cap-iron is not a problem, there are plenty of 100 yr old planes (like my 5 1/2) with original cap-irons still doing yeoman service. The biggest enemy of a cap iron (apart from folks with files) is corrosion. For that reason, and because it comes with a nice, clean surface &...

I think you've settled the diagnosis there, it would seem you had the same problem with the original blade. The cap-iron is the fundamental part, not the blade. As already mentioned, the distances between its edge & the lever-cap screw & cam slots are crucial. The existing cap-iron is either...

Yes, Inspector, somewhere back in the mist of memory I remember seeing a jig used with a TS. It's the high-speed cutting you want, & how you achieve that doesn't matter a whole lot, as far as the finished thread goes. But I suspect it would cost a fair amount more to buy a saw blade & have it...

You're not wrong, Dan! It took far longer to make the tiny saw than the 2/3rd sized one, though some of the extra time was spent re-making the handle, or scratching my head over how to hold it while I shaped some of the curvy bits. The 2/3rd size was comparatively easy, my 'regular' tools...

Droogs, soaking the dowel with oil works well (on many woods) with the traditional threadbox, but in my experience it doesn't do a lot for you when using high-speed cutters. The swarf can stick together & gum up the works quick-smart. That may not occur with the OP's amazing setup as the...

I was going to make a comment on the "unconventional" filing technique in the video too, but I always hesitate to criticize someone else's methods - my motto is what works for you works for you. I was schooled by a fitter uncle who would've clipped be over the ear if he saw me dragging a file...

Turns out there’s more to making miniatures than meets the eye! A while ago I got a pack of 1095 shim stock to cut up into saw blades. It was an “assorted” pack, and apart from the thicknesses I really wanted (0.020 & 0.025”), it included a sheet each of 0.010 & 0.005 inch. I wasn’t much...

Yes, that's a pretty big difference alright, much more than Grobet should be happy with! I'm most surprised, I have used a lot of Grobets over the years & always found them to be very consistent, file to file & batch to batch, whereas the big brands, when they first went "offshore", were all...

Dan, if your files are genuine Grobets, the cut number should be stamped on the handle. It's somewhat random just where the number appears, but it will be there somewhere (I have had a few where the stamp didn't hit properly & it was hard to read). I strongly suspect your two files are...

Dan, I think I can offer a solution to the puzzle - we are comparing apples & oranges! Those Grobets you show have very coarse teeth & I suspect you have either a 1 or a 2 cut, much coarser than the 4 cut I normally use. With needle files, the teeth get finer & the corners sharper as the...

Dan, that toothing jig is an amazingly clever bit of work! You haven't shown the underside of the jig, but I assume the thin plate on the"inside" is what catches in the preceding saw cut? I get the general principal ok (I think!). I had a twinge of envy watching you working on small teeth...

Yep,and that's about what I hone at, but I grind a bevel somewhat less than 30. Well, to each his own, Jacob. Indeed the thin blades were a selling point back in 1870 when few woodworkers had access to a grinder driven by other than potato power. I'm a hand-tool enthusiast, but I've owned a...

Well Jacob, I can only speak for the 3 Bailey type planes I own (2 (English Stanleys and a circa 1918 51/2). The flats machined on the sole behind the mouth on the 1918 model bring the sole thickness to quite a bit less than 3mm, while the two English planes are ~3mm thick at that point (I...

You have me confused, Jacob. The original Bailey frog sits on two sets of 'flats' which have varied a bit in extent over time, but the principle that the frog is supported at the toe (behind he mouth) & under the mounting screws remained constant until some point late in the 20thC when some...

Well I go with David Charlesworth. A frog that doesn't sit square to the sides is a bit of an eyesore to an obsessive type, but as long as all the flats are mating sweetly and it's not so far out of whack it restricts lateral adjustment (there's so much room inside a typical Bailey that's...

Hmmm, it doesn't look like a low-angle bed to me. I've just spent 15 minutes trying to find out what the bed angle of a 75 is, but all sources I consulted remain stolidly silent on that point. Could someone with a 75 & a protractor of some kind measure the bed angle? It would be a very handy...

I usually stay out of these discussions, because there is no simple answer to the OP's question. Most folks simply recommend what they like & are used to but that is not a terribly objective way to evaluate anything. Recommending something like the Gramercy sash saw as a dovetailer is getting...

OK, good answer - in that case I would have used a scraper too..... :D For some reason I thought you were prepping your boards using the scraper - I get lots of exercise jumping to conclusions! Eliminating tramlines from a smoothing plane can be a contentious topic, but there seems to be two...