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I very much like Mike's adjustable platform. also worth looking at gosforth handyman's video on youtube, essentially the saw is attatched to the bench (top, not inset) and the workpiece is supported by free moving blocks. a good solution if you don't want to have a permanent set up / short of...

the vids that annoy me are the ones with no explaination of what they are making and then at the end I find it is a gadget that is badly made, I'd never use and would cost half the cost of materials to buy ready made (admitedly pretty much any item that you can make yourself would be half the...

Could you drill and rivet the clips to the mdf?

so if you were to remove the need for accuracy (for a rough project say), you'd just go straight in with a big bit, no pilot, no punch?

odd that he felt to patronise with the example of a ball, how about 'is there a barrier and more than one lane'?

I had always been told to start small and move up in stages, incorrectly it seems. I'll adjust my technique in future. One question though, the general advice on this thread seems to be centre punch, pilot drill, then full size, I'm wondering why you need the pilot bit though, the centre punch...

So does the bigger spindle mean less play and a more accurate cut? I'm assuming the extra weight means it doesn't bounce around as much? I have that makita, I think I paid £65 with no bits from ITS, very happy with it for my needs.

genuine question, is this a significantly better tool than the makita trimmer that B&Q are selling for £99 inc cutters? https://www.diy.com/departments/makita-rt0700cx4-1-4-router-laminate-trimmer-with-trimmer-guide-240v-bit-set/5055995553753_BQ.prd

pleasantly suprised that decking would last that long, was it coming in direct contact with the soil then?

I wasn't aware of this self combustion of oilly rags until a couple of years ago, since then I've taken to either washing out the rags or using tissues and burning them when I'm done

Personally I'd pick up an IBC (the big industrial liquid containers in a cage) they normally go for around £40 second hand. cut the top open, grind the cage open, pierce drainage holes, then clad, the cladding could be pretty lightweight, maybe old fence panels (free?), but as they are doing...

I'd say that would last a year before falling apart, maybe two depending on the quality of the board and the paint, you might get away with using osb for a shed to some extent but not for something that would be held wet.

I think both the cup spreading weight and the offsetting action are equally true, and don't contradict each other. The wide surface are of the cup spreads the weight and as I see it supports most of the weight of the door, the screws just stop the door twisting off the hinges but aren't...

peter millard was my first thought too, I think you need to make sure you get a good quality mrmdf

better grip / more points of contact do you think? I've got a dewalt which takes the open back sort and have been pretty happy with it, I like the quick blade change

surely that link is for a block that takes orbital sanding disk?

sounds like a nice quick way to mount the top, do the rubber bungs work to dampen vibration or was it just what was to hand?

I've got a 115 as well, I've had the same issue buying 125mm disks in error (probably lidl too), when this grinder goes I'm going to try and get the larger size, I'd not thought to buy a new guard, I assume it is one of those things where buying a part is almost as much the cost of a new tool.

this thread seems to have wandered away form your question, I was just wondering what direction you were leaning with your design now?

to be fair we might be comparing apples and oranges, mine is a non sliding mitre, maybe five years old, orange trim (can't remember the difference between orange and green, I think one is 'professional', a very dubious statement) I do wish I'd got the sliding version, I realised quickly the...