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Spray with WD-40 or similar will prevent pick up on the teeth. Vital with any machining of aluminium. Paraffin is even better if you have any.

Alternatively there is still a Lorch company selling welding equipment and using what appears to be the same logo. Might be worth e mailing them to see if they are a leftover of the original company and might have access to old manuals.

Vintage machinery.org is worth a try they have loads of free to download manuals.

Not aware of any means of attaching aluminium and steel by brazing or soldering, but never tried it. Think it will have to be glue or mechanical, nuts and bolts, rivets etc.

Eastwood restoration products I think do the body solder sticks and flux. I too have found liquid flux to be pretty useless. Paste flux can be found in Screwfix, or any plumbers merchant. Then there are powder fluxes for brazing etc, but a huge variety depending on what you are using in the way...

One of the most interesting features of many such posts is trying to devise methods of doing something when the OP doesn't have the "proper" tools for the job. Some of the solutions can be very ingenious.

Very nice but me thinks you have quite a dainty derriere. I think for me it might have to be a bit bigger :-)

Bonkers when you can buy a real one for a fraction of the money. And looking at the spec it doesn't really have any more than a superficial resemblance to the original car anyway. Much rather have a real one with the BDA engine. Or if you don't care about originality then there are loads of...

You would certainly make your life much easier by avoiding Aluminium. If you want to join rusty parts for their appearance then clean the areas to be bonded first so you can solder or low temp silver solder them. You can solder steel easily using the products available from car body restorers...

Putting a stop in the power supply to the inverter would be a waste of time as any kind of safety feature. Cut the power and the vfd will continue to work for some time as it shuts down. I use a Huan Yang inverter on my metal lathe. I can't recall without going out and looking at it what it's...

I have some of the yellow tinted ones, nothing special just bought at the local petrol station. I find they do help.

A few left behind playing submarine.

My favourite was Hannah Fry saying, with a cheeky grin at the camera, "well who doesn't like a bit of ginger?"

I agree they do have a certain industrial quality! Very good if on the inside.

Folks, you continue to argue and completely ignore the truly momentous events unfolding before you. Jacob has acknowledged that he might actually be wrong, worse still that it "has been known" implying previous examples of being wrong. I don't know about anyone else, but I need to sit down for...

It's a curious alloy. Mainly copper so you would think fairly soft, but isn't. Only experience I have is working watch cases made of it. Very much the go to material for pocket watch cases in the 19th century. Usually knocking out dents and dealing with scratches. It does work harden, so has to...

If you are in Italy can you not use the surface mount locks they go in for, with the added option of bolts that shoot out of the top and bottom to secure the door upper and lower edges as well, can't remember the maker but very common there.

I wonder if you could repurpose a retracting airline reel? Would have the capacity for the thicker cable, and certainly available for the length you want.

We still use traditional mothballs in the wardrobes, after an unfortunate incident involving a very expensive suit becoming perforated! I couldn't believe that you cannot buy them over the counter anymore, nasty naptha. Fortunately you can still get them from our old friends the Chinese, via...

Knobs for machine handles? Thread as necessary, or just stick them on. Strange colours though.