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Don't disagree, I'd go for birch ply here - though I'd say MDF is also a staple of painted furniture. But... ...is a rather sweeping statement. If it's based on your experience, then with respect, you've been doing it wrong. MDF is a fine product - flat, stable, cheap and widely available in a...

Haven't edge-banded MDF since I started using a decent quality MR MDF. Clean up the edges with a P120, then a coat of water-based acrylic primer/undercoat. Let it dry, then rub it back, and give it a second coat. Then it's just a light de-nib, and your topcoats. Job done. Cheers. P

I made plenty of MDF doors with a 1/4" Trend T3 router and a grooving bit, albeit slung under a bench. I'd be a bit leery of using a grooving bit freehand though, especially with a small router, as they can be a bit 'tippy' . If possible, look at options for mounting it in a piece of e.g. MDF...

Just FYI the Kindle model #DO1100 is not a Paperwhite. It's a Kindle 4 'basic' i.e. non-touch e-ink reader with a 4-way rocker switch for navigation, and no illumination. Enjoy your reading :)

Just FYI, all Kindle Paperwhite's have an illuminated screen - it was their big selling point when launched in 2012 - so you either have a different Kindle, or you have the illumination turned off. And not to be pedantic, but e-ink screens are opaque, they can't be backlit; Kindle Paperwhite and...

TBH the reviews for the new Reacher aren't so great either; download a sample chapter, or take a punt on it and make up your own mind. Not sure which is the most amazing - that you can buy a book for the price of a cup of coffee, or that a cup of coffee costs as much as a book... And FWIW...

Use MR MDF if you can - much better board for not much more money. Also 'wood hardener' will toughen up the edges quite well - probably similar to Peter Sefton's cellulose sealer mentioned above. HTH P

I've knocked together a few of these over the years, from scrap and offcuts:- Make them as high and wide as you need, from whatever you have - 4x1, 3x1, whatever, depending on how light vs strong you want them. Joint two frames together with hinges at the top - doesn't matter if the knuckles...

Quick tip to speed things up a bit next time; if the shelves are evenly arranged, work out the measurements in advance and cut some spacers from scrap mdf/ply. Fit the bottom shelf first and spend time getting it perfectly level, then reference all the subsequent shelves off this one using your...

This one had me going for a minute or two:- https://youtu.be/pK3oiIVBnxs

Have to agree - it's unclear if you're a customer asking how much you would expect to pay, or in the trade asking how much you should be charging. Either way, a location would help (apologies if it's listed - doesn't show up on Tapatalk if it is).

Hadn't seen those before Custard, thanks for posting!

I've done this with Ply shelves over a span of 1100mm & 300mm deep. I used a pair of 13x6mm steel bars on edge, glued with PU adhesive into a slot in 18mm Birch Ply, then skinned over (when set obviously) with 6mm BP, plus a hardwood lip front and rear. Worked well, but there's no way I'd try...

Tell me about it. I looked into this last year and the only small electric van worth considering (for me) is the Nissan NV200e, but like 60-odd percent of London homes, I don't have off-road parking, so would either be using public 'slow-post' chargers (of which there are a few, to be fair) or...

+1 for Tips from a Shipwright. I enjoy watching Kingpost Timberworks, particularly the Forgotten Joinery Techniques. I can only take The Samurai Carpenter in small doses, though I do admire his skill, esp. with large timbers. And Jimmy "if it looks straight, it is straight" Diresta of...

I generally use a decent 4" foam roller to spread adhesive when joining larger flat areas, then a hard rubber roller from an art shop to apply even pressure to the panels - works a treat, generally. The advantage of a cheap foam roller with contact adhesive is that if it goes off, you just chuck...

My local timber yard A J Ferguson were established 'during the great war' so potentially 100 years old, or close to it. And Moss & Co were established 1885, though they moved from their old place in Hammersmith not so long back. Pete

I've used British Ironmongery a few times, might be a bit mainstream for you, but they have some quite nice 'traditional with a twist' stuff I haven't come across elsewhere. HTH Pete

That's good to hear, thanks. :D Re. biscuits vs dominos, I think it's simply that if you have a domino you tend to use it, wether it's 'overkill'or not, it's one tool for the muscle-memory to recall, one set of cutters, one type of fixings to stock etc.. etc.. Totally fair points made above...

Nope, don't think so - I've certainly never managed it. Provided you've cut your mortices deep enough I can't see what the problem might be, assuming plenty of glue, etc.. etc.. Soz, not a clamp fetishist (any clamp than can exert more pressure than I can with my bare hands is fine by me) so...