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What about inset concealed hinges? They are available sprung and with soft close. :wink:

I think Chippy and Russ have really hit the nail on the head, Makita batteries have gone down hill over time. It looks like they are sourcing their batteries from a cheaper source now. :evil:

I take it a 'Travelling head crosscut saw' is a Radial Arm Saw? in which case that is correct it is pulled. A sliding mitre saw should be pushed. Both of these machines should be fitted with a zero or negative rake blade which will reduce the blade lifting the timber off the table. If the timer...

I think a lot of money must change hands when it comes to the architecture of some of the modern buildings recently, most of those look like a blot on the landscape compared to their surroundings! :roll:

I just charged my 15 year old 9.6V Ni Cad driver today and it is still working fine! :o How is it that Makita could make a Ni Cad battery that good 15 years ago but can't make a decent Li Ion or Ni Cad one now? :roll:

Every SCMS or RAS have a negative or zero rake blade in them so that the material is held tight against the fence and not lifted off the bed of the machine. A SCMS should be lowered on extension and pushed towards the fence and a RAS is drawn through the work towards you. This is the safest and...

Morrells primer is the best I have found. It's available in solvent and water based and is a 2 pac system. Seals MDF well. I use the solvent system with a cheapo Bergen Gravity fed HVLP gun with a 1.7 needle and tip. HTH. :wink:

I have found one slight problem with my new De Walt Li Ion, it won't grip my smallest drill bits about 1mm dia. the Makita did. :roll:

Thanks, it is built up and sanded to shape. I am not keen on using the bendy MDF. I have used a similar system on wood Hazel but wouldn't use it on any oak, better to use Scotchbrite pads on that. :wink:

The forum post Mike linked to is the correct way to do it. This is one I completed a few weeks ago. Admittedly it is MDF and not pine but this was achieved using the same system but using commercial paint. Not sure how good you would be able to get pine as has been stated above. HTH. :wink:

Very nice job. As has been stated the photos are really crisp too. :D

Brilliant!

Good God, I didn't realise how many people suffer with back pain! I injured my lower back at the age of 38, (just stooping down) i have since suffered with it off and on for 20 years now. I have tried acupuncture, Chiropractor and the Doctor with no success. They did ease the pain at the time...

I have missed all of these but been told they are very good. I look forward to them being repeated on one of the channels I can get.

With an MDF door of those sizes I would not use the hinges you have posted without some sort of reinforcement in the MDF. A door of those sizes will be pretty heavy and over time the hinges would pull the screw out. Personally I would use the concealed 'euro' hinge or insert dowels into the MDF...

It depends on how much MDF you have to paint and what sort of MDF you are using? If you have a lot of edges to cover then I would recommend Zinnser bin. This is a sealer and works brilliantly on MDF edges, the drawback is the cost of it as it's not cheap. It is a shellac based sealer white in...

No, as Bob stated it is rubbish. It is the Dakota one that Rutlands sell that is the easiest one to use. It is just an alloy template and two cutters. I think it is a bit more expensive than that one but certainly much better. :wink:

Coley has got the answer. I also use this method with my circular saw and it works fine. Once you have fixed the piece in the centre butt the saw up against it and cut through the base and you then have an exact cutting line. :wink:

Is this guy very brave or just crazy: :shock: http://news.sky.com/story/1147663/wings ... agger-jump

I use one that was in a saw tooth set from Rutlands and have used it for a number of years now in Oak and MDF sand it is still going strong.