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I am toying with the idea along similar lines but using runners at the top and a guide at the bottom. My thinking on this is that the door would then tend to hang level. (In case of any flex in the runners due to the length) The alternative is to just have the top rail on runners and the doors...

Thanks Roger. Those are the runners I intend to use but I didn't realise they went up to 1100mm. Might get a tad expensive if I use two sets for each robe though. I have had a suggestion of just using one set at the top which would make it more viable.

Thanks Roger but those runners only mount on one surface (above). The runners I was intending to use are the side mount bearing runners in a heavy duty size. These of course mount on each side. I wonder why they don't sell just the running gear for the larder units without all the baskets as...

I have used these on a few jobs in the past and they work really well. Very smooth running system. HTH. :wink: http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... 0kg/369220

Not a bad idea but wouldn't the frame flex from side to side? I should add that the door will be fitted onto the front of the frame rather than hinged.

I would like to pick the brains of all the pros on here if I may? I have been asked to quote for a set of built in robes that slide out. I know it's a bit unusual but it is due to the space in an alcove. The alcove is 1000mm D x 1140mm W x 2360mm H. My idea is to make two robes of approx 500mm...

Oh dear Bob! Was that after throwing it at your new apprentice? :lol: Got to admit it does tend to destroy the precision a bit. :lol:

To Mars with the first settlers with any luck. I have never had an interest in it and just can't see why people get so passionate about it? :roll:

As mine was second hand I didn't get the small protectors for the rods. I used some plastic electrical conduit which worked fine. :wink:

A good friend of mine owns his own Carpentry business, employs 5 joiners, and has plenty of work in the area. He started out like myself doing wood work as a hobby and went self employed over 30 years ago as a one man band. Before the financial crisis he employed 30 guys and had lots of...

Last time I built some MDF lockers I used these: http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... ers/376234 They were easy to fit and did the job well enough. :wink:

If there is enough room under the table you could have a slide out bearer instead of something that hinges. :wink:

Ideally you would really need both, the mitre saw for cutting long pieces to length and the table saw for smaller lengths and ripping widths. :|

I have two RAS's my main one is the Elu 1251 and is mounted in a bench. Great saw and very useful. I wouldn't be without mine especially for doing trench cuts as it is a pain to do these on the SCMS. My second RAS is a smaller 8" Ryobi that is permanently fitted with a dado blade great for...

Damn! thanks Lincs. I thought Roplas had gone out of business. I will remember that for the next time. :roll:

Ah I see. No it's not sad at all. I am still pleased when I make a jig that works well and saves me time in the shop. I would be lost without jigs for my routers. :wink: I say give yourself a pat on the back and enjoy the speed with which you can now cut tennons on larger lengths. :wink:

Yes, this is laminated from three pieces of 6mm. it won't have a profile as it will fit below the tray just to blank off the gap. :wink:

I just watched your video, very nice work. One question though, what does the router index off? It doesn't show the router being used in the video so do you use the router edge guide on the end?

I build my wardrobes the same as Mar-mite using Bob's router table set up. 2K is cheap as even I would charge more than that! But it would be built with 'proper' shaker doors and spray painted with back and sides. :wink:

Love them and Victory 'v's. Haven't had any for ages now though, Damn now you've set me off gotta get some. :lol: