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I'm pretty certain these are type 15s from the early '30s. I've got a few rough carpentry projects to tackle before I put these to use on something finer.

Couple more photos. These don't have the kidney shaped holes on the lever caps, and they've the full contact bed to the frogs, so I am wondering if they're actually earlier than type 15? I'll have to do some more reading.

If I decide to use them, then I'll have to get new irons for them. Probably Ray Iles.

I've just taken delivery of these two planes. Both Stanley type 15s, from 1931/32. The tote on the 5 1/2 has an owner's stamp, C.E. Rance, or possibly Range. They've a little surface rust but no pitting. I'm so happy to have these, but I'm honestly not sure if I should use them or put them on...

Maple fingerboards are fantastic on Fender style guitars. Good choice!

Hold on, I think I got my maths wrong, it think for .25 semitones, it's more like 8 to 9mm?! EDIT again: it's 9.42mm, give or take. That's quite a move.

It sounds like that bridge saddle might need to go back between 2 and 2.5mm. EDIT: @DougR got there first.

But the tail block itself has room to swing back a bit further still? You could either get some stiffer springs; or grab your router and make the back route a bit longer.

If the bridge is still floating, you can tighten the screws in the anchor to tilt the whole bridge back a bit. I hate trem bridges for this exact reason.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but it seemed better to carry on here than to start a new thread. It looks like I'll be going for the Triton TW8CPHJ. Before I pull the trigger, I'd like to ask: will Krieg screws work with it, or will I be stuck using the less easy to find Triton screws?

Here's the small kitchen table I made for my mum.

I hope so, I've got a lot of stuff to store!

I'd add to that, some people buy that one good plane, to get an idea of how good a metal plane can actually be, then use this as a reference when tuning their less expensive planes.

I've ordered some exterior grade MDF to have a play around with. I'll probably start with making a wall cabinet for the office, to feel out the process. I've never made a carcass entirely from sheet materials before.

That's actually quite similar to my experience. My Stanley no 7 was surface ground by Ray Iles, and it's in slightly better tune than the Cliffie 5 1/2.

What's the local plane making tradition where you are?

For the money, a vintage Norris will likely come in cheaper.

I bought a Cliffie 5 1/2 years ago, I used it maybe once and it's lived in the box since. It's an odd size. I prefer my Stanley 7 followed by a Stanley 4 or my vintage Norris if the wood is particularly unpleasant. I'm quite interested in a no. 3. I'd love a LN in bronze, but that would be an...

Cheers @Against_The_Grain . I think what I'm going to do, is build myself a crosscut sled for cutting the depth of the shoulder, and then use my bandsaw for cutting the cheeks. It won't be as accurate but all of that is inside the joint and won't show. It'll still be tidier than when I cut my...

Axminster got back to me. They suggested the blade I'd need for a flat bottomed kerf is called a grooving blade. CMT do them, but they've got huge teeth, probably ok for ripping a groove in a rail or stile but probably not great across the grain for a tenon.