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You probably could manage longer tenons if you used the no. 1 cutter with a groover and ran your spindle anticlockwise. edited: (changed my mind re direction :))

I like a good mystery. :) Yes, 1+4 in theory gives a double ogee. But how thick would a stile have to be? I'm guessing ~40mm at least. Not really cabinet door thickness. Might it be that the pair with holes and pins form the ogee and groove (leaving a small square shoulder on the inside), while...

Seeing how it's a set for cabinet doors, is it supposed to have an ogee on both sides of the profile?

Just guessing, but is that smaller diameter groover for scribing when there's a rebate on one side of the profile? Also consider that some of these sets are used both clockwise and anticlockwise.

Yes. Profile was used with a groove cutter, the scribe with the ring. Something like this:

I had a 4 piece set and the scribe only had a distancing ring between the cutters. No groover/ cutter.

Depends what tools and machines you have at your disposal. For a traditional plane, a sharp chisel and a lot of patience would be enough. A planemakers float would also help. My advice would be that you first make the laminated kind, as this will give you a good understanding of the internal...

Perhaps the groove cutter was sharpened once too many times? Try making the profile using one cutter at a time. Reduce the number of variables that affect the moulding. This might give you an idea where the problem is.

Traditionally, visible backs were shiplapped or T&G from solid stock. Frame and panel is also sometimes used. Veneering common plywood with a more expensive species is also not unheard of. If the backs aren't visible, then secondary wood or ply is adequate.

Dr. Bob's looking for a desk. Something modern. :)

I'm guessing someone from the track saw crowd will soon be along to tell you that they have the answer to your woes. :) (Joking aside, it's probably a better solution than a rickety Asian TS.)

I bough a B&D 500W drill in the early 90s. Black shell casing. It was used a lot on a daily basis and paid for itself many times over. Changed the brushes a couple of times, bearings twice, chuck, cable, switch... Like Trigger's broom. :)

I wouldn't rely entirely on glue of any kind. I'd do it in a couple of stages. In the first, inject with a syringe as much PVA glue as necessary in the crack and then clamp it nice and tight. When this is dry, make a groove/ mortise over the problem area, about an inch deep and 2, maybe 3 times...

I remember watching a C. Schwartz video in which he used an ikea kitchen worktop. I think he also used screws during glue up. It should work. What's the worst that could happen? Nothing a belt sander or hand plane couldn't fix. +1 for the cross beams.

At least Godwin's Law is alive and well. :)

For mdf, a carriage bolt is better, but if you're using hardwood, the insert nut will also work.

A lot of people mentioning Kristallnacht these days. Time will tell what it was. Maybe it was a Reichstag fire.

I have an A4 size sketch pad. Mostly freehand with pencil. I don't have time to 'hold their hand' and 'walk with them' to a solution. They might expect this, but few will pay you for your creativity and time. Oh, and never email them any drawings before a down payment. There are unscrupulous...

Chicago P.D. , The Walking Dead, Fargo (haven't seen the new season)... I don't watch TV much anymore. (57 chanels, nothing on). Someone suggested the Expanse a while ago. Saw 2 episodes, wasn't bad.

When I started living on my own, I was surprised by the wonderful choice of attire in Woolworths. (A stand up comedian) I have their 12V drill/ driver. :)