Search results

I reckon if it was me I'd start with round bar, chucked in the drill press, and 'machined' with whatever you have. Some support might be needed depending how you do it. Then file the square on the part that was in the chuck, or leave enough length to cut the chucked portion off and file the end...

PS the other option is the good old Grolsch washer on the std buttons. You can buy little packs for not much money

If this is a mahogany body the Schaller screws should go in no problem. I've put lots in and never had to do anything special, though with harder woods you do want a pilot drilled. As per the pic they are longer and slightly wider than typical screws, but also hardened and much better quality...

I used Ronseal varnish on an MDF router-planer bed, a solvent-based polyurethane. Can't remember the exact name on the tin now. One thin coat on, then sanded lightly, another coat and another very quick light sand for bits of dust etc. It's tough stuff, I used to hot glue pieces to it which come...

Maybe it needs a new tyre/s. Mine was just doing the same thing, I made a top tyre from some 3mm neoprene rubber from fleabay. Cut a bit less than wheel circumference, superglue the ends with greaseproof paper wrapped around to stop it sticking to the bench. It's sat in place fine without any...

@boggy no idea if there is anyone near you or if this could be done by a remote order, but custom exhaust fabricators sprang to mind. 60mm (or 2 3/8") is a normal size and stainless tube bending is part of their game of course. Also you can get pre-made bends of various shapes & sizes, to build...

I got the bandsaw as a nice gift from a neighbour, it'd been well-used but sat for years homing spiders and covered in dust. Just needed a good old clean up, the guides smoothing and new bearings, the ones on it wouldn't turn and had grooves/nicks. The skate bearings get a bit stiff to turn...

My originals were well shot. I used NSK at first but didn't last particularly long. A pack of 8 skate bearings delivered is the same as one NSK before post. £4 five years ago and still got some left, thats OK by me.

I use skateboard bearings, dirt cheap but although they're sealed they do get rough-running after a while. My metal guides got a quick smoothing, I haven't had a reason to change them though. Not had it that long about 4 years I think, but gets used nearly every day. The rip fence knob, mine...

I've got a 110 Defender, 300tdi motor, so its got simple fuel & electrics. Touch wood nothing big's gone wrong so far, just had a lot of leaks to deal with - used it every day before going solo and couldn't have it dripping in the works car park. I'm 6 foot 3, I did the Mud seat rail conversion...

If they really want glassy & flat, farm it out to somewhere for a 2k ckear job. Still you might want to do a grainfill stage, or they'd need to hose on loads & loads of 2k. 2k's not a good DIY option - highly poisonous, needs kit. I build guitars and for 2k I have a separate compressor to drive...

Just a little follow-up, thanks to all for the help especially Deadeye for that measurement, my mate made a bush and it fits just right on the shaft. Super-smooth to use now too. I drilled a hole to poke in one of those disturbingly-catheter like tubes on aerosol oil cans and the like, to keep...

Oh blimey, sorry chaps!! :oops: it is #15 Deadeye thanks very much, perfect, appreciated. In case it's any use to anyone here's Mk1 2 and 3 part breakdowns Mk2 parts Mk1 parts Mk3 parts diag Mk3 part nos

Cheers both, Phil I think those links are direct on your machine and don't work over the web. Hope these work, the first is a diagram of the bush, it's the thickness of the flange I need, the red bit. Mine's totally fallen to bits and shredded there, it's all gone. Don't know if it's nylon or...

Hi all I've picked up a Driltru Mk2 that doesn't need a lot to get going, but I wonder if anyone that's got a Driltru could measure the thickness of the flange on the plastic top hat bush, the one on the pinion shaft that sits at the ride & fall handle side? Mine's pretty wrecked at that end...

Hello neighbour.. that's a lovely job there :)

That's what I was saying, better hold out for a MIG than those 50-60 quid boxes which might be tempting because of price. Plus MIG's easy to start out with, my boy managed some not-too-bad welds after a few goes when he was 12. I had a 151Te, same feeling about that in that the feed wasn't that...

We're taking it as read but avoid stick/arc, the low price can be tempting. And gas is nicer than gasless MIG. About any small MIG would do but soon you wonder how you ever got by without... like I started on cars & bikes but have made tons of tools & widgets, sheet folder, window & door...

You can get chrome effect paint from a few sources (for spraying), they're all similar with broadly similar techniques. With the custom car/bike stuff at least the process is get a flawless gloss black finish first, as above. The chrome goes on very sparingly with a higher air pressure, just...

Cheers marcros. It works as a wipe-on stain but I seem to be the only one using it for that... although that's just convenience. I do think it's a bit more UV-resistant than some stains, being meant for cars etc.